Moon Over the High Desert: Road Trips from Los Angeles

Moon Over the High Desert

By Armando Ortiz

Driving on the Pearblossom Highway, anytime of the year, can be a magical experience, especially during a full moon. It offers a serene and reflective journey with breathtaking views of the Angeles, the San Bernardino and distant Mojave Mountains. Allow me to briefly explain why driving along this road is a worthwhile endeavor, especially during a full moon while heading east.

To begin your journey, you drive up the I-5 from LA and take the 14 north. Once on the 14, you continue until you hit Pearblossom Highway, where you exist and continue driving on for a while. Along this route, you pass by Palmdale, Little Rock and the town of Pearblossom. As you maintain a steady speed of 60 mph, the engine purrs like a cat, and a sense of surrealism washes over you. Thoughts of Victorville and visiting relatives become distant memories. Personally, I often take this road when I visit my relatives or when  there’s a major accident on the I-15 north, necessitating a detour in that direction.

While driving this section, especially in the late afternoon, I recommend playing your favorite tunes and savoring the moment. As the moon begins to rise over the Mojave Mountains, it casts a radiant glow akin to a giant spaceship emerging from the earth, evoking a sense of awe in the surrounding Joshua trees. The moon’s luminous light gradually spreads west, illuminating desert mountains. Its glow paints shadows of Creosote bushes and sagebrush on the ground. The spectacle begins to take place late in the afternoon, just before the sun sinks below the horizon, when the sky transforms into a deep orange hue that rapidly fades westward.

Taking a drive through this frontier, one of the few remaining desert backcountry environments in Los Angeles County, is an experience worth having throughout the year. Residents of LA should make it a point to drive along this highway at least once. Here, you can witness the desert fauna rarely seen in the city. The branches of the high desert trees resemble human arms stretching towards the heavens, frozen in time like statues holding the sky, waiting for the moon’s gentle touch. These trees seem to celebrate and honor the moon’s ascent from the depths of the distant mountain ranges. This yucca plant found here is aptly named, symbolizing the time Joshua kept the moon in place while raising his arms towards the sky in prayer.

Heading east on Highway 18, you’ll notice the dark silhouettes of giant yucca trees seemingly guiding the moon across the sky, moving it branch by branch, like miniature arms moving a white sphere. It’s as if they were directing it towards the Angeles Forest, where it descends below a sea of blinking lights that adorn the western slopes and coastline. The diverse desert bushes appear to dance in celebration to a rhythm known only to the wind and moon.

Frequent drives along this desert highway reveal subtle changes in the landscape. Life is a constant process of change and transformation, and the high desert exemplifies this truth. These changes become especially apparent during daylight hours. You might happen to see CalTrans widening a section of the highway or a house suddenly appearing where yucca trees once stood. A dirt road may now cut through the dry wash that flows during Spring. Construction crews seem to emerge out of thin air to complete the construction of a stoplight. Occasionally, you may spot crows soaring above, chasing after discarded hamburger wrappers. 

This land, once being mostly sagebrush, chaparral and desert plants just a few decades, years, or months ago, now appears devoid of life. Vast acreage is cleared as if a giant wooden block had been placed and later removed, leaving behind perfectly squared corners and open spaces. Sometimes, you come across makeshift communities of city squatters who have been pushed to the fringes of the city and into the high desert, their motorhome enclaves resembling wagon forts from a  bygone era.

As you continue your drive, the majestic Angeles Forest mountains, a constant backdrop to the city of Los Angeles, continue to fill their role. Here, the landscape takes on a juxtaposed nature. In the city, these mountains face south, but on this captivating drive, they face north. Aside from Palmdale, Little Rock or Pearblossom, there are no prominent cities or urban areas as you drive south. The homes that dot the mountainside seem to disappear into the chaparral during the middle of the day, blending seamlessly with the natural surroundings. At night, scattered yellow lights give the impression of Christmas decorations scattered across the land, occasionally accompanied by long robotic arms glowing- usually gravel companies working on their pits. Further along your drive, these lights indicate the presence of Valyermo and Phelan, towns nestled closer to the mountain range.  

Driving through this highway is a year around adventure, with each season offering its own unique character and feel. Winter unveils mesmerizing lights adorning the local ski resorts, flickering through the night as they create artificial snow. During the day, after a major storm, the mountains don a thick blanket of snow which can be seen for miles. The northern face, receiving the least amount of sunlight, combined with the absence of air pollution, presents truly spectacular mountain views. Spring, too, can be quite special too, with gentle brush strokes orange, purple, lavender, yellow, and white sweeping across the high desert landscape. As you roll down your window, the air feels cool and clean. In a good rainy season, millions of vibrant orange poppies dance with the wind as you traverse the 14 north. Later in the season, stoic Joshua trees, along with other yucca plants, proudly display their white stems holding delicate white pods containing seeds, while bushes bloom in shades of yellow and white. In the distance, the Angeles mountains still boast their snowy crowns.

Summer and Autumn transform the drive along this highway into a dreamlike experience. Despite the hot and dry weather, there is much to relish. If you drive in the opposite direction, you’ll get treated to dramatic sunsets behind the Tehachapi Mountains. Sunrises are equally captivating, with hues of yellow, orange, purple and blue blending seamlessly across the sky. The wind during this time serves as a reminder of why the resilient desert fauna that has withstood the test of time. It’s also the perfect opportunity to pull over and admire the stars on a clear night or to quench your thirst with a refreshing blueberry smoothie from Charlie Brown Farms in Little Rock. During this period, the yucca plants release their seeds to the ground, and other desert plants fill the desert air with a fragrant aroma. This desert environment also experiences  its fair share of monsoon weather, and late summer flash floods serve as a reminder of nature's unpredictable power.

For an exploratory detour, you can take the 138 and connect to highway 2 on the San Bernardino side. By making a right turn on Sheep Creek Rd, you’ll have the opportunity to traverse the mountain crest, winding through the backbone of the range and reenter Los Angeles through La Canada. Alternatively, you can continue on Highway 18, passing Adelanto and venturing into Victorville. Here, you can find a place to have lunch or continue on your road adventure by joining Interstate 15 and heading south towards Hesperia. As you descend along the highway, winding your way down El Cajon Pass, glimpses of urban life gradually emerge through the city lights of San Bernardino and Riverside county, along the connecting nodes of the I-215, I-10, and Highway 60.

In Southern California, where car ownership is prevalent, day trips are a common pastime. Traveling north past the mountains can create special memories, and provide a relaxing and reflective experience. The drive also allows you to appreciate the remaining wilderness that exists just an hour away from where we live. It serves as a reminder that this ecological region is a desert environment, and the unique flora and fauna should be appreciated and respected. Even after a summer rain, you can catch the lingering scent of sagebrush and native plants in the humid air. A journey along this highway becomes a rediscovery and a discovery of something special, connecting us with nature and ourselves.