Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Herzog’s Aguirre

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Herzog’s Aguirre

By Armando Ortiz

Inca Trail - Part One: Reflections on a Film:

My first glimpse of the Inca Trail came through Werner Herzog’s film Aguirre, the Wrath of God. Back then, as a regular at the local video rental store, I often noticed the film’s striking cover: Klaus Kinski’s crazed expression as the titular character, Aguirre. Eventually, I rented the movie, drawn by its exotic imagery. At the time, I saw it as a surreal fable, a tale of conquistadors in helmets juxtaposed with indigenous people in vibrant beanies. Kinski played the crazed soldier gone mad, seeming out of place in the lush green environment, his demeanor almost alien. The setting- a humid, swampy jungle– didn’t quite align with the costumes, and I struggled to make sense of it.

As I grew older, the film’s premise became clearer: the pursuit of gold and glory for the Spanish Crown. Yet, as someone whose education revolved around North American, U.S., and Meso-American history, I hadn’t connected the story to the Inca civilization or life under Spanish rule. My understanding of geography and human environment interaction was limited. One of my university classmates once mentioned that the rapper Tupac was named after Tupac Amaru, a Peruvian leader, but even then, Peru’s history felt distant and unfamiliar.

Before leaving for Peru, I revisited the film, watching the first 15 minutes. This time, the mist-shrouded green mountains and narrow trails carved on to sheer cliffs captivated me. The imagery was haunting yet magical- a line of soldiers and enslaved men snaking precariously along the trail, their journey echoing the danger of the llama that slipped and fell into the abyss below. As the train carried us to the trailhead, the eerie resemblance between Herzog’s landscapes and the unfolding reality stayed with me.

The train ride itself evoked an odd deja vu. Herzog’s original German dialogue was poorly synced with the English dub, resulting in voices that didn’t match the actors. A performance by the crew in our train car echoed the film’s mismatched dubbing: English voices floated from hidden speakers, out of sync with the actors’ lips. It was as if Aguirre himself were speaking in an unsettling, borrowed voice.

Later, I learned that Herzog had filmed parts of Aguirre at Machu Picchu, on the Huayna Picchu trail, and along the Peruvian Amazon. His main character, based on the historical Lope de Aguirre, led an expedition to conquer Peru via Panama. Defying orders, Aguirre sought to rewrite history in his favor. But his rebellion ended in 1561 when he was captured, dismembered, and executed. Herzog also drew inspiration from Gaspar de Carvajal, a Dominican friar who chronicled a similar journey along the Amazon two decades earlier.

The film, released in December 1972, immortalized these landscapes and themes of ambition, madness and conquest. Revisiting it before my journey added a surreal layer to my anticipation. As I prepared to walk those trails, the film’s haunting imagery lingered, merging history and myth with the undeniable pull of the Andes. For the first time, the Inca Trail felt less like a distant fable and more like a real, living connection to the past I was about to experience.

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Exploring Lima

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Exploring Lima

By Armando Ortiz

Lima Food Tour, the Coast, and Centro Historico:

The next day, we took an uber to the Barranco Plaza. Though the morning was gray and drizzly, the excitement of being in a new city was exciting. Our day would soon unfold in a whirlwind of vibrant colors and flavors. After arriving, we hopped into a tuk-tuk taxi bound for the local market. There, we tried different fruits that we had never tasted before and indulged in a variety of sandwiches and local dishes - enough to skip lunch entirely. The market tour was both enlightening and satisfying.

Afterward, we wandered down to the beach, strolling along an old cobblestone road that led us to the shoreline. Along the way, we noticed groups of students taking school pictures- a common sight throughout our trip.  Our next stop was the historic center of Lima. Despite the slow, traffic-clogged taxi ride, the anticipation of exploring the city’s core kept us going. When we arrived, the hustle and bustle of the plaza felt welcoming. The sky began to clear, revealing turkey vultures circling overhead, many perched on the towers of the grand Lima Cathedral.

We wandered around, taking photos of the surrounding avenues and landmarks, including the Presidential Palace. At the cathedral, we stumbled upon a wedding ceremony in full swing. Military-dressed men led the bride’s limousine, and we watched as she was greeted by her parents before entering the church. Intrigued, we continued exploring the historical center, snapping photos of the elegant, timeworn streets. Another wedding awaited us at La Merced Church, a stunning five-century-old building. The church was open to both guests and passersby, offering us a unique opportunity to observe the ceremony as tourists mingled with locals.

Feeling hungry, we set out in search of a snack and stumbled upon a coffee shop museum. The cafe boasted a wide selection of local brews, which we savored before heading to the House of Peruvian Literature. There, we explored an exhibit detailing Peru's linguistic history and how language shapes identity, culture and art. It was an enlightening and deeply educational experience.

By the time we returned to the main plaza, the wedding ceremony we had seen earlier was still in progress, and lively music echoed through the air. A festive gathering was underway, with trumpets, trombones, tubas filling the plaza with Andean sounds. We watched the bride and groom dance with their family in a circle, the elderly women dressed in traditional Andean attire, while the younger guests wore modern ceremonial outfits. Witnessing this celebration added an intimate, unforgettable layer to our trip.

Our day wasn’t complete without trying some local street food. We asked a nearby officer for recommendations and were directed toward a street by the Presidential Palace. The scent of grilled meat led us to a bustling corner, where we found stalls serving anticuchos- beef heart skewers. The smell was intoxicating. We ordered anticuchos with potatoes, adding spicy aji sauce, which elevated the already delicious meal to new heights. Feeling like we had truly immersed ourselves in the local experience, we savored every bite. As evening grew, we made our way back to the plaza, full and content, and caught the bus to Barranco to close out our day. 

Part 2: Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Exploring Lima

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Day of Arrival

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Day of Arrival

By Armando Ortiz

Day of Arrival:

We landed in Lima, Peru and went to the district of Barranco, staying in an Airbnb room near Miraflores. The view from our room, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, was breathtaking- a million dollar view. It felt like staying in a beachside hotel in Santa Monica, especially on this cool, overcast day. The charm of the place was something any Angeleno would appreciate.

After settling in and freshening up, we headed out to explore the boulevards leading to Miraflores. We walked north along Avenida Reducto, turned west on Avenida 28 de Julio, and eventually found ourselves walking north along Avenida Jose Larco. After a satisfying dinner at El Misterio del Inka, we continued exploring and wandered into Kennedy Park where we stumbled upon the tail end of a public poetry reading. The park was brimming with people coming and going and enjoying the lively atmosphere as if the pulse of the city were here.

Nearby, we discovered a place similar to the Soda Fountain Pharmacies that were common in the U.S. many years ago. El Parque D’Onofrio offered an array of ice creams and creative concoctions. Families filled the space, enjoying dinner or indulging in a wide array of ice creams and desserts. The place had a family-friendly atmosphere, bustling with locals and tourists alike. We ordered some picarones- a sweet treat with hints of clover and cinnamon that balanced out the cool night. I’d never been in a place that seemed to have a hustle and bustle with couples, families, tourists just walking around, having a meal, a drink or a snack.

As we strolled further, we found something unexpected: a cat motel for the park’s many stray cats. Vendors lined the park selling popcorn, rice pudding and other snacks. With our picarones in hand, we soaked in the atmosphere before finally making our way back to the Airbnb for the night.

Part 1: Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Introduction

Part 3: Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Exploring Lima

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Introduction

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Introduction

By Armando Ortiz

Introduction

We initially planned to hike the Inca Trail before the pandemic. At that time, our goal was to complete the full four-day trek, camping for three nights along the way. However, when worldwide Covid-19 lockdowns hit, all those plans were put on hold. Four years later, we revisited our original plans and decided to hike the Inca Trail- but this time for the shorter version.

 

The shorter version is a one-day, 8 mile hike that ends in Machu Picchu. Starting at Kilometer 104, we would spend most of the day hiking, culminating at the Sun Gate, where we’d be greeted with breathtaking views of Machu Picchu.

 

In the months leading up to the trip, we spent considerable time preparing for the hike. We gradually increased the length, elevation, and intensity of our training hikes. Despite a few injuries and minor setbacks, we stayed committed. Our training culminated with two challenging hikes: Kearsarge Pass Trail and Mt Wilson Trail to Orchard Camp. In the weeks before departure, I found myself watching videos on what to expect, researching the weather, and compiling a list of things I wanted to experience once in Peru.

We aimed to pack as light as possible, but knowing we’d be doing several long hikes, we had to bring hiking gear as well. Peru’s diverse geography also posed a packing challenge, as different regions have distinct climates. For example, Lima, located along the Pacific Coast at an elevation of about 500 to 1,500 feet above sea level. Has mild winter temperatures, so warmth wasn’t our main concern there. 

However, Cusco sits at 11,000 feet above sea level, which meant that both the altitude and the cold would be a challenge. We had to consider layering clothing, sturdy hiking shoes, and headgear to cope with the conditions. Luckily, Peru is famous for its alpaca wool clothing, which offers excellent warmth.

Part 2: Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Day of Arrival

John Steinbeck's The Grapes of Wrath: Book Review and Reflections

John Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath: Book Review and Reflections

By Armando Ortiz

Is the migration of people a phenomenon that exists during one generation or is it something that has taken place hundreds of times for thousands of years? John Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath, published in 1939, captures the plight of Oklahoma farmers who lost their lands during the Great Depression. Steinbeck’s novel is one of the best novels I’ve read recently, resonating deeply with current migration issues as it explores the hardships faced by people displaced from their homes. 

I started reading Steinbeck’s novel a week before leaving for Peru and was completely engrossed by the plot. Once in Peru, the parallels between the Joad daily’s journey and the struggles of families migrating to the United States today became strikingly clear. This resemblance deepened my engagement with Steinbeck’s portrayal of resilience in the face of displacement. This review not only examines the novel but also reflects on its relevance on today’s migrants to the U.S.

The novel centers on the Joad family, particularly Tom Joad, as they struggle to survive in a rapidly changing world. In addition to chronicling the experiences that his characters go through he also describes the forces of nature over the American Southwest. The Joad family’s deep connection to their land is tested by unforgiving nature and relentless economic forces. During the Dust Bowl- a devastating drought in the mid-1930s Midwest- they struggle to maintain their home, only to be uprooted by banks prioritizing profit over people.

The banks and business interests of their property are not concerned for the wellbeing of people there. Locals in the countryside continue to lose their land to mechanized agriculture and are left with two options: try to get employed by those businesses or move somewhere else. The parcels lost by the families are the places they’ve called home for at least the last three generations. The uprooted family is forced to make tough decisions that will take them to California. 

The Joad family’s deep connection to their land mirrors the universal bond that many have with the earth- a bond often cut by forces beyond their control. As their fight against the banks becomes futile, this connection becomes a painful memory, pushing them toward a new hope in California. During my trek on the Inca Trail in Peru, a guide spoke of the spiritual connections people have with the earth, a sentiment that echoes in Steinbeck’s portrayal of Jim Casy and the Joad’s family’s bond to their land.

Ultimately, the Joad family abandons their fight against the banks and sets off for California, lured by pamphlets promising plentiful farming jobs and the hope of prosperity. For the Joads, the food, grapes and oranges, and the possibility of affording a home together draws them West. 

As the Joads journey west, their story eerily parallels the experiences of many Latin American migrants heading to the U.S. today, driven by similar hopes and hardships. People who decide to head North to where the myth of finding pennies on the ground or picking up used televisions on the corners is alive. 

Tragedy soon follows the Joads westward: their dog is killed, Grandpa Joad dies and is buried by the roadside, and eventually, Grandma Joad passes away. The family’s journey is marked by loss and abandonment, reflecting the harsh realities of displacement. Little by little the family loses members, and they abandon their material possessions.

The trials endured by the Joad family- loss, displacement, and the struggle for survival- are not relics of the past but living realities faced by countless migrants today. These scenes are poignantly mirrored today by the perilous journeys of migrants from South America to the U.S., who face immense hardships along routes like the Darien Gap. In South America, I witnessed first hand the strength of family and community ties, echoing the Joads’ experience of unity and loss. 

Just as Oklahoma served as a departure point for Dust Bowl migrants, towns in Colombia act as staging areas for those embarking on the perilous journey through the Darien Gap. Like many migrant families, the Joads family begin their journey united, but overtime, their cohesion erodes under the weight of tragedy and hardships.

In the midst of their journey, families like the Joads, are sadly separated by tragedy or necessity. Blood ties are not as strong as they once were. By watching videos and reading about the Darien Gap one learns that people begin to lighten their load once the weather, and terrain begin to take a toll on their bodies. Familial unity either becomes stronger or weakens. People get swept away by the rivers or get robbed by locals. The worst experience being one survivor of a five person family unit making it to the Panamanian refugee camp. 

Tragically, as Steinbeck illustrates, the hope of a  new beginning often demands a baptism of suffering. The renewal that comes with their move West has strings attached. Just as the Joad family faced discrimination, exploitation, and verbal abuse by the locals. Today there are politicians that blame our nation’s ills on illegal immigrants and asylum seekers. These new immigrants have become the new scapegoats for all that is bad in the country. 

Despite facing oppression from legal systems, neighbors and religious groups, the Joad family perseveres. They quickly adapt to their way of life and what keeps them moving forward is having a warm meal, but also a place to call their own. It is in their desperation, like immigrants today, where they find the strength to keep moving forward. 

Dispossessed and driven by necessity, today’s migrants, like the Joads, embody humanity at its rawest. Steinbeck’s novel compels us to recognize the enduring struggles of the poor and dispossessed, highlighting the shared human experience of seeking a better life amidst adversity.

Though written over 80 years ago, Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath remains a timeless exploration of forced migration and the universal quest for a better life. It shows us that there will always be a reason why people decide to put their lives at risk as they hold on to promises that are only that and that along the way they will have to find new ways to adapt and push forward towards a new and better life.

John Steinbeck’s The Pearl: Review

Standing Against the Waves - John Steinbeck’s The Pearl: Review

By Armando Ortiz

In John Steinbeck’s novella The Pearl, a young couple named Kino and Juana face a crisis when their baby, Coyotito, is bitten by a scorpion. Desperate for medical help, Kino seeks assistance but finds none due to their lowly status.

Determined to find a solution, Kino heads to the sea to hunt for pearls to pay for his son’s treatment and discovers the largest pearl anyone has ever seen, which seems like a blessing soon turns into a curse as news of his find spreads throughout the town.

The pearl’s discovery attracts the attention of everyone, including those who previously ignored Kino’s family. The entire community becomes obsessed with the pearl’s potential, yet they overlook the dire condition of Coyotito, who lies at death’s door.

Kino dreams of the changes his newfound treasure will bring, envisioning his son attending school, buying a rifle, and purchasing new clothes for the family. Yet, selling the pearl proves difficult as local dealers conspire to undervalue it to maximize their profits.

The pearl soon becomes a source of danger, bringing violence during the night and suspicions in the morning. Kino faces attacks from those who wish to steal it. The same doctor who once refused to help his family now shows up. Though the doctor supposedly saves Coyotito’s life, his true intentions remain suspicious. 

Juana, realizing the pearl’s destructive power, hopelessly attempts to throw it back in the sea, but Kino stops her. The drama by the coast worsens as Kino is ambushed by mysterious figures. Despite the mounting tragedies, Kino and Juana remain determined to persevere.

  Throughout the narrative, Kino confronts the challenges head on. Just when things look bleak, there is a flash of hope and a solution. Nonetheless, this brings even more challenges, and the relentless pressure of his responsibilities weigh heavily on him. Steinbeck skillfully portrays Kino and his family’s struggles, as if standing still against the metaphorical waves that threaten their existence.

Kino is aware of his low position in his community, but the pearl’s discovery emboldens him to seek a better life. When the townspeople refuse to offer a fair price for the pearl, he decides to journey north, hoping for fairer opportunities. However, this decision leads to more violence and the tragic death of Coyotito.

Steinbeck’s novella highlights the plight of those marginalized by society’s power structures. The narrative illustrates how the ruling class in the story relentlessly obtains valuable resources at the lowest cost, often at the expense of the poor. Kino’s refusal to sell the pearl cheaply attracts dangerous attention from those eager to profit from his misfortune.

The setting of The Pearl reflects Steinbeck’s profound understanding of the Sea of Cortez. His vivid descriptions of the tide pools and the desert boulders that Kino climbs to find safety reveal his intimate knowledge of the Baja California region. By immersing the reader in this environment, Steinbeck extends his narrative of California into Mexico, showcasing the unique lives and experiences shaped by the contours of the coast.

Nevertheless, the story remains relevant today. As we scan the news about faraway places and the precarious lives of the poor, we realize that this narrative is universal and powerful. It unfolds daily from the highlands of the Andes to the jungles of the Congo, from coastal fishing villages to populous megacities. Ultimately, The Pearl is a timeless story of human perseverance amidst formidable challenges, resonating with audiences across cultures and eras.

Samuel Beckett's Waiting for Godot: Review

Samuel Beckett’s Waiting for Godot: Review

By Armando Ortiz

Samuel Beckett’s Waiting for Godot can be seen from the perspective of the disciplined will that allows us to learn and gain knowledge. It seems ruthless to realize that that is what enables our wisdom to grow even more. Estragon seems to always be in pain with some physical ailment. Vladimir is a bit more rational, but he insists on waiting for Godot. Even though they see Pozzo subjugating and humiliating Lucky they really don’t tae the necessary steps to stop Pozzo from being authoritative, cruel and a dictator like towards Lucky. Instead they become spectators of Pozzo and Lucky’s unfolding drama. Estragon continues to busy himself with his foot pains and begins to contemplate suicide, while Vladimir continues to rationalize everything, and at times helps Estragon reconsider his situation. 

An interesting situation that begins to develop from the dysfunctional relationship that exists in the story is that characters do not detach themselves from the suffering that they inflict on each other, and when they are separated it brings out bouts of blindness and aloneness. In many ways our dependence on particular relationships make us question our ability to survive in this world, and yet it is those close relationships of family and old friends that help us get through our trials and tribulations, albeit these social situations are a cause of those sufferings as well.

A boy appears in the play a couple of times and he might very well represent the childhood that everyone experiences and the people that they come across as they grow up and come into being with, and though the actions of adults might seem frightening, the child too will one day struggle to find meaning in life. They too will have questions about existence, they too will see injustice, and a sense of fairness and equality will be turned upside down and people be redeemed. One thing they too might forget and maybe wait for, is the return to their childhood. In many ways this becomes reminiscent of characters that exist in other great novels where children are exposed to the cruelties and saving graces of humanity. It is up to those in the present to somehow save the children, but also what they see and experience in the society that they grow up in that molds them. 

The children of The Brothers Karamazov and the characters of Huckleberry Finn all grow, live and survive in the conditions that their societies have created. It is within the realities that each nation and cultural region perceives the world that people grow up and reach full personhood. Waiting for Godot reveals that although there are many instances in life where we wait for something to happen, by doing so life and events unfold. The question then becomes what are we as readers doing to affect the realities under which and in which we exist.

Ascending Mount Langley: Reflections from the High Sierra - Part Seven

 

Ascending Mount Langley: Reflections from the High Sierra - Part Seven

By Armando Ortiz

Final Reflections:

Did you ever cram for a test the night before? Long hikes and backpacking are quite the opposite. They require time, effort and thorough preparation. After my backpacking trip, I realized how crucial preparation is for long treks. This involves consistent practice and training. You must work out regularly. You can’t decide that you will hike Mt. Langley the day before- it can be dangerous.

 Before this trip I’d been hiking 4 to 6 miles on the weekends, regularly increasing the distance and elevation as summer approached. Each hike included carrying a 15 to 17 pound pack, building my resistance and endurance. During the weekdays, I took daily walks and lifted light weights twice a week. The week before trekking up to Mt. Langley, I completed a 15-mile hike up White Mountain Peak with a 3,400 feet elevation gain, which indicated I was ready for Mt. Langley- a two-day trip with an additional 5-6 miles and double the pack weight.

Looking back, my clothing was sufficient, but I’d make some minor changes. A long sleeve shirt, and windbreaker provided good sun protection, but a long sleeve hoodie, a good cap, and a rain jacket would be perfect for high elevations. This setup gives me cover from the sun, wind resistance, and insulation. While my sun hat worked well, using the hoodie in windy conditions covered my ears, affecting my peripheral vision and muffling sounds.

The water filter worked fine, and knowing that there was a source near the camp to fill two liters of water was convenient. Using a light dayback for the summit gave me more freedom of movement and allowed me to just carry the bare essentials, making the climb faster. However, my main pack, over 20 years old, couldn’t distribute the weight evenly. The straps loosen up, and the shoulder straps dug into my shoulders. A new pack is needed for better performance.

I brought more food than necessary, adding weight to the pack. The extra food provided an option to stay another night and rest after the summit, though I didn’t take advantage of that opportunity. I carried energy bars- blueberry and lemon. Interestingly, my taste changed slightly at higher elevations. The spiciness and saltiness of peanuts were nourishing, but the lemon snacks were tastier, with their chewy tartness providing an extra kick of satisfaction.

Monitoring my hiking app for trail updates and tracking the weather conditions online helped me to choose the best route. Before the trip, I read that New Army Pass, though longer, was safer. Knowing as much as possible about the trail conditions is always helpful. Dedicating time to study the topography of the wilderness area helped me anticipate sections along the trail. I knew that reaching High Lake would be moderately easy, with 400 feet elevation gain. By studying the map I was able to identify water sources, with High Lake being the last one before going up Mt. Langley. The toughest section of the trail was near the summit, with eroded terrain, but the cairns facilitated navigation.

Choosing a better location to camp that was less strenuous to the body could have spared unnecessary energy expenditure. Staying one or two miles further down the trail would have reduced the burden of carrying a heavy pack. The one lesson learned was to take down camp and leave everything packed for the return if not planning to stay the night.

Rushing and trying to race the sun gets you in trouble. My arrival was delayed due to the drive, and I started later than expected. Lunch was rushed because I wanted to reach High Lake before sundown. The next day, after a full day of hiking, I quickly packed up to beat the sun. Pushing my body to its limits was risky. My knee, already bothering me before the trip, worsened due to the rush. Being well rested is essential for a successful trek, especially before covering many miles in a day, but also pacing yourself and being aware of time.

Finally, car maintenance is crucial for any long trip. Although I checked the oil before leaving, inspecting other parts like air filters, tire pressure, and the radiator cap could have prevented potential issues. Ensuring your vehicle is in good condition contributes to a successful trip.

Preparation gives you mental space and physical endurance to make informed choices. During a trek, if you feel like you’re disoriented physically or mentally, you can take a moment to pause, breathe, and reflect before making the next decision. At the summit, I wondered how Covid-19 might have affected our physical endurance. Yet, I successfully submitted Mt. Langley. Fortunately, my body persevered, and I made it back to my car. This experience reinforced the importance of preparation and planning for any endeavor, ensuring a successful summit, hike, backpacking expedition or trip into the wilderness.

Ascending Mount Langley: Reflections from the High Sierra - Part Six

Ascending Mount Langley: Reflections from the High Sierra - Part Six

Ascending Mount Langley: Reflections from the High Sierra - Part Six

By Armando Ortiz

Almost there:

The last two miles were slow going and the rolling mounds were more like long slow steady climbs. Although the trail was well defined the ground was annoyingly unstable. It wasn’t sand what I was walking on but tiny bits of granite which were both airy and not compacted. My breathing and keeping an internal rhythm were the only things on my mind. The weather was much warmer than it had been at the top with my skin feeling sticky. 

I found myself taking breaks every ten minutes. Finding a rock the height of my waist made a perfect seat to take a few moments of rest. There was a sense of relief that the air I was breathing was warm and earthy. Some areas in this section had open spaces that looked like they might have been seasonal villages for the Shoshone. From this section to the lakes it is less than 4 miles away, which could have provided fish and game for people. Along the edge of the lakes I couldn’t help but wonder if some of the flat and slick boulders were used to process meat and seats.

It looked like a perfect meeting point where people for thousands of years gathered in the summer and trekked into the mountains to hunt and collect food. Many of the lodgepole pines on this last stretch were far enough apart that numerous temporary shelters could have been built. The area provides enough shade from the sun which would make it ideal for a summer’s stay. The weather is slightly cooler to the hot Owens Valley. Then again their meadows could have easily been created recently. The lakes could have been an excellent source of water to the first peoples that called these mountains home. Although I was moving like a tortoise and found myself pondering how the first peoples lived in these areas, I knew that I was nearing the end of my trek.

I could sense that I was nearing my last few meters. On the last turn of the trail I finally descended towards the left and could see a sign. I had made it back, relief and accomplishment filled me. My car was close. As soon as I reached my car I took a long gulp of water, and attempted to send a text. There was still some light, though the sun was quickly beginning to set. I quickly changed clothes while I boiled some water on a portable stove.

Dinner- shrimp ramen with chili and a packet of jalapeno tuna fish. The meal was comforting, the broth savory, and salty liquids would replenish me of the fluids I’d lost throughout the day. The vapor touched my face and the condensation mixed with my skin.

 After the quick meal I opened the hood. All the coolant in the reservoir had either evaporated or leaked. I turned the radiator cap, it was broken, but there was liquid in there. I searched for residue of coolant salts along the engine hoses and below the car and didn’t see any. There was some residue under the reservoir which made me conclude that coolant had escaped from there. I did not have to put water in the reservoir. The broken radiator cap could have been the source of the car losing the coolant. I returned to the drivers side and hoped I was right with my final inspection, the car could at least get me to Lone Pine.

The engine quickly turned on and began to hum as if nothing had happened. Good old reliable Toyotas. I returned to check the engine, and all was clear. I decided to drive down towards Lone Pine and from there I’d see how the car was doing. It would not be as taxing on the engine as it had been coming up and the weather would be slightly cooler. As I left the campground the forest seemed to merge with the darkness. I drove slowly down the winding road.

Arriving at the Lone Pine intersection the car seemed to be humming along without a problem. I pulled to the side and sent a few quick texts, made a right and merged with the 395 South bound. Family was glad to receive my messages and I was glad to have made it down to the valley. Everything was surprisingly fine. The drive home was smooth, with a stop at the town of Mojave where I filled up on gas and bought some snacks. 

Ascending Mount Langley: Reflections from the High Sierra - Part Seven

Ascending Mount Langley: Reflections from the High Sierra - Part Five