Hiking Mount San Jacinto via Deer Springs Trail

 Hiking Mount San Jacinto via Deer Springs Trail

by Armando Ortiz

I started the hike at 5am, right as the sunlight began cresting over the horizon, and returned to my car by 6pm. This was my first hike up to Mount San Jacinto. This was a journey through changing landscapes that opened my eyes to what once was happening in these areas. Slopes of the mountain face underwent a remarkable transformation as I ascended, shifting from a sandy dirt trail surrounded by manzanita and oak trees to rugged gray rock boulders intermingled with pine outcroppings. The shadows of trees, and bushes just as well changed throughout the day and were like on complete sundial. Rock formations and uninhabited clearings indicating past life. The hike to the summit makes the Deer Springs trail unforgettable. Any hike that allows you to see the change in the different ecosystems within a mountain range is always special and memorable to the senses. 

To reach the top of Mount San Jacinto an early morning start is recommended. If this hike is done in the summertime there will be sufficient time and sun to complete the hike. There will be two places where water can be gathered depending on which route you take once you reach Strawberry Junction. This day I chose to take a left and head north along the trail. The morning breeze was refreshing and the day was clear. These stretches of the trail are wooded and there will be plenty of shade.

Along the way one might see things that otherwise are overlooked at times. Fallen tree trunks at times looked like crow wings that decorate the ground as signs of past fires that had burned through the area. As one continues climbing you see granite outcroppings, some looking like Olmec figures covered in shrouds while other rocks are huge boulders that have been weathered for millenia. 

Although the hike was difficult, the desire to reach the top became more and more intense as the landscape changed. Although difficult the trail gives a sense of serenity as you discover different fauna and hear the wind blow through the branches of pines and chaparral. There is enough variance in this changing environment that the eye stays stimulated. Before reaching the summit I refilled all my water bottles at Deer Springs, which seems to have water flowing year around and a few feet away the PCT connects with the trail.

As I began my descent the trail revealed some things along the way that allowed me to make connections to what I had seen on the way up earlier in the day. I took a loop on the hike up, and descended on the east facing side of the summit along Peak Trail. This side of the mountain is more exposed to the elements, hiking down the trail is easy, and lined by bushes. Palm Springs can be seen at a distance if you stop and look east. I reached a section that was marshy and had plants that seemed to spiral up tall with a vibrant green. Water seeped out of the mountain on this section of the trail. White granite rubble piled up along a slope seem like caves where natives might have sat and studied the sky. The thick walls and hangs serve as protection from sudden storms of summer heat. 

As the afternoon sun slowly moves across the horizon the shadows of the boulders seem to turn into prehistoric statues and monuments. These looked like the ruins of Greek temples with its slabs laying flat one on top of the other. Most of the trail was quiet, with occasional hikers and backpackers headed up to the summit. The trees sway and the plants stand tall and vibrant indicating that water is near. I leaned on one of the boulders to keep my balance as I stepped over a root and the warm boulder told me of the warmth that was still ahead on the other face of the mountain.

 As I reached Wellman Divide, the sun’s rays served as a reminder that it's summer, and was suddenly rewarded by fabulous views of Idyllwild’s granite canyons making it the perfect location to take a water break and enjoy views of the town below. At this junction bedrock mortars, like giant buried bowling balls, reveal signs of ancient communities that once existed and made their trek to this place reinforcing a belief that this mountain has always been visited and has been the perfect place to take a rest. Once you begin nearing Strawberry Junction you see broken pine trees damaged and altered by boulders that freed themselves from the upper slopes, held sideways by black oaks that resemble canoes. As you descend you feel the rough edges of the rocks rub against the soles and sides of my boots.

On the way down there were times where the trail seemed to change directions, and I had to stop and reorient myself. It was as if something were pulling me towards other directions where I could have gotten lost. I began to wonder and ask myself if the mountain was communicating something to me. Of course this is all idle talk. As I was coming down I began to notice what appeared to be directional markings covered in pine needles and dirt that indicated to a direction or a place. These markers were likely man-made, as I later learned that Native American inhabited this place in the past. At some point I wondered if the dead manzanita branches were covering up what lay beyond. Cleared spaces seemed to be evidence of possible seasonal villages or places where people once processed nuts.

I made it back to the car, my mind remained filled with the dazzling sights I had experienced and remarkable connections I had made along the way. Intrigued by what I had seen, I decided to do some research after returning home. I searched for the trail that I had hiked earlier but now seeing it from a slightly different perspective. I discovered that along the trail there are areas that are like patches of meadows where people could have set up communities. It turns out that the surrounding Native American tribe, the Cahuilla people, had a connection to the mountain and seasonally migrated to these areas. There is even a boulder, about a mile away from the trailhead, that has pictographs that women would visit and write on the walls of this boulder as a coming of age ritual. The boulder that looked like a giant bowling ball most likely was a site for processing acorns and other nuts. 

The top of the mountain was crowded with all kinds of people feeling accomplished, and as I write this down I wonder if the ancient had the same feelings once they reached  the summit and gazed down at the lands and places that they called home. People from all directions, Idyllwild and Palm Springs reaching the top and taking pictures, me included. Different tribes at the top of this mountain exchange greetings and rest on the rocks. Truly this is a mother mountain that has had a significance for people all over the area for a millenia and continues to be silent.

Don Quixote de la Mancha: Review and Eulogy

 

Don Quixote de la Mancha: An Unconventional Review and Eulogy

By Armando Ortiz

What would Don Quixote have said and done while traveling through Southern California, imagine him coming into being in this land of eternal sun and long evenings, wandering the hidden canyons that dot the deserts and coast. Imagine him talking to the Chumash and Tongva people who described to him the world that existed prior to his arrival. Would he have been treated as a god, would he have seen them as a people that understood everything he expressed. He’d probably deny being a demigod on the grounds that a true knight only fought and battled for love. 

What if he had wandered through these mild desert canyons that are like veins stretching from Baja California all the way north past the Bay Area. Traveling through the shade of the different varieties of oaks that call these oases home, coastal labyrinths to explore forever. The discussions and explanations between Quixote and Panza, as the audiences just listen intently and wonder why they are arguing over foreign topics. What wisdoms did people practice that sometimes we forget about that Panza would have gleaned from them. They might have shared their own tales of chivalry and knighthood honor, and emerged from their reed huts with mysterious totems and ancient tales.

On Rocinante’s back he would have led the way along the old camino that led to the Bay. Behind would have been Panza on donkey eating all the delights that people would have shared with him. Because everything was for everyone. Pinole with honey in the mornings, and maybe venison with oak nut gruel would have been dinner. Let’s not forget the bricks of cheese that they might have carried from somewhere along the Sea of Cortez, and dried bread that could have been brought to life with the waters of the arroyos. Possibly might have already been familiar with tamales and their different fillings, let's not forget being served corn bread with some wild broiled pig. Under the shade of an oak tree overlooking the rolling hills of El Monte or on the rock face looking at the Malibu coast and gazing at the blue sky and golden hills that created the first colors of UCLA. That’s where I would have sat if I were Don Q on a journey through the land of the Amazonian Queens. To the character who continues to live on in books I dedicate the following piece, enjoy:

Ode to Don Quixote

by Armando Ortiz

Give praise and honor to where honor is due, to the dreamer of kingdoms whose visions evaporated as a dew.

A knight of the past, living in the present, the magnus character who faced the lion and chased down the devil, only to be treated like a loon.

Standup and give praise to the man who traveled around the earth, up to the moon and even felt the sun reaching the heights of noon.

To the stars he aimed and with covered eyes was made a clown, a higher order of morals unknown to others, living for love and commitment was his tune.

Conquering giants, villains, and knights, freeing slaves, rescuing damsels and making others play with his illusions, what would we have done too.

In the end his books were burned, he was blinded by rags of kings, and pulled like a monkey in a cage on a cart, defeated and brought to his bed.

He dared to dream, he had the courage to cross the boundaries of fear, and died to emerge from the cave of slumber.

It was those who interdicted to show him his errors that needed punishment and made out as fools. 

The ultimate dreamer pushed ahead only to be brought home defeated by those already dead.

Throughout all the trials and tribulation he had his friend and travel companion, Sancho Panza, to question his every move.

Joseph M. Marshall III’s The Lakota Way: Stories and Lessons for Living

Joseph M. Marshall III’s The Lakota Way: Book Review 

By Armando Ortiz

The author of The Lakota Way: Stories and Lessons for Living is a Sicangu Lakota elder from South Dakota who was born and raised in the Rosebud Indian Reservation. He teaches and writes about Lakota culture and way of life which existed even pre-Columbian times. In his book, Joseph M. Marshall III highlights the lives of Lakota people of great merit, but unlike the merit that we might attach to people today like, sport stars or billionaires. The lives of Crazy Horse, his grandparents and many others serve as allegories on how to live life, and gives you a glimpse into the Lakota way of seeing the world.

Earth, our home, plays an important role in the book, because just as mother earth has been very generous to us, that generosity should be practiced and be extended to all. In the Lakota worldview all includes everything on earth, from tiny fire ants to migrating families of whales. What I came to understand from Marshall’s writings is that we all make up tribes and groups that are interdependent on one another, like mycelium is an integral part of the root systems of trees, and like our original mother intended us to understand our existence. Earth is our home and we continually interact with her environment. We are the human people with tribes all across the planet, one of many groups that call this place home.

The stories and fables shared by Marshall were passed down to him by his grandparents and community elders who taught him. Now he teaches readers how to be with each other and how the land contains parables to share. It allows us to enter the Lakota way of life and learn from their adaptations to their land in the last 300 years. These stories originate from the land and are intended to instill in us a desire to have courage, to seek wisdom, to persevere under trials, to be kind and to be grateful. It’s a message for anyone and everyone. We all have ancestors and we honor them, hopefully, by following their words and emulating their positive actions. Everything has an end, but with it comes a beginning, and all we might leave behind are lessons learned to be shared with others.

Reading the book encourages you towards a more reflective and thoughtful way of living where we hopefully see the interconnectedness. Although we might see ourselves as different and unique individuals from others, Lakota ways of honor, morals and humility can be practiced. He also shows us the capacity that we have to endure, as families, tribes, nations and as a people of earth. Enduring to show the next generation that life doesn’t stop and must be confronted one way or another. Yet along with endurance the importance of relationships that we build with our families, our friends, neighbors, coworkers, and earth is an integral part that makes interconnectedness work.

The Lakota Way is a humble, yet powerful way to see one’s life. Long ago our ancestors had stories and allegories to go with them, but still the spirit of adaptation, and an ability to flex and bend with the wind when necessary is there. These tales also change and fit our realities but the message remains the same. Who we are doesn't necessarily mean who or what we think we are but the message and lessons that our own actions tell to the next generation. Ultimately it's a book about being better people to each other and better humans to everything around us.

Hiking in the Redwood Forest: Miner's Ridge Trail

Hiking in the Redwood Forest: Miner’s Ridge Trail

By Armando Ortiz

We started our hike in the midst of beauty, walking through a magical place, the redwood forest. The white mist was still floating around. The morning sun would quickly make the fog burn off. We hiked, mostly in silence, entering the dark forest right when the sun was midway through the horizon and not yet over the mountains. I was in awe of the deep greenery, and it seemed like things from the past and present kept emerging. This brief description of our hike might only reflect a tenth of what one sees there. So hopefully after reading this brief passage you are encouraged to visit this one of a kind trail.

We walked on Miner’s ridge which has hundreds of rooted coastal redwoods. The middle sections of these trees were on our sights, their trunks emerging from the slope several feet below. At times, stopping to see where the trunks started, and slowly moving our heads up to see the tops of their crowns. Our cameras would be unable to take the fullness of the trees and foliage. 

Some trees looked like they had been burned and others appeared to be battling attacks from varying directions: fungi on the side of the trunks, tiny insects like mountaineers climbing the Himalayas one right behind the other. At times a Daibutsu would suddenly appear meditating in the midst of the woods, an incinerated trunk that looked like a Gargoyle would be protruding from the barks appearing frozen in time, revealing itself through the dark ashes and contours of what was once a full tree. 

We were walking down an ancient trail, entering a city center that was walled up by ancient pillars, to the left and right were these giant organic arms holding a green ceiling upright. It was quiet at times and suddenly the whispering of birds could be heard within the canopy, emitting their sounds from somewhere in the foliage. Then silence resumed. 

We kept walking, sometimes stopping to catch a breath, but mostly to drink water. We’d open a bag of snacks, check the time of day. Silence was interrupted by some comment, an observation, she would point to something on the bark or branch of a tree or stop to take a picture of a custard colored banana slug. I’d stop and admire the tiny redwood sorrels at the base of a tree, small green umbrellas whose undersides are rusty red. Exchanging a bag of snacks, we’d ask about our conditions, we were doing good with the hike. The light that passed through the cover of trees allowed us to appreciate the different depths of green amongst the trees. In awe we continued, at times saying, “Wow, look at that!” Miniature moss terraces adorning the edge of roots. 

Ferns were magically nestled on branches the size of oak trunks, flourishing against all human understanding, living five stories above ground. Fallen redwoods looked like Egyptian mummies decaying. New saplings reaching the sky, like a baby’s arms reaching for a hand. Suddenly the sound of a hooting owl from somewhere was heard. Who can it be? Where is that coming from? Hidden above, in the layers of greens and light.

After a few hours of hiking the fauna began to change as we began to descend down a canyon that ends opening up to the coast. Signs from scientists conducting years long research are posted along this short section of the trail. The trees change to coastal douglas fir, spruce, sycamore and oaks with their chlorophyll being a lighter green with tinges of yellows. Nearing the road we began to hear the sounds of a creek at a distance though you can’t see the actual stream and the occasional rumbling or ruble being picked up by tires. We then reached Beach Road and followed it to the Fern Canyon area. Once there we walked towards the beach and relaxed to the sounds of the waves crashing, the coast seemed much mightier white noise to relax.

Diamond Sutra: Reflections on Urban Life Today

 

Diamond Sutra: Reflections on Urban Life Today

By Armando Ortiz

“Los instantes abiertos clavaban sus raíces sobre mis suspiros.”

 -Federico Lorca

I started reading the Diamond Sutra & The Sutra of Hui-Neng a few months ago. While reading the Diamond Sutra I began reflecting on its message and started writing down notes. These notes became thoughts on each short chapter that eventually came to be a complete document and interpretation of the Buddhist text. The Prajnaparamita came to be in India, and eventually arrived in China like many other things that happen with the exchange of goods and ideas. The text is a major tome in the Mahayanist branch of Buddhism, which is also known as the Great vehicle. This branch mainly spread into East Asia. The term Mahayana also refers to the path or journey of the bodhisattva that is striving to become a fully awakened Buddha for the greater good of all people wherever they are on their life journey on this earth. Mahayana Buddhist also believe the path to enlightenment is open to all.

Eventually the text came to be translated into English and many other languages allowing its accessibility to the world. This post is mainly a commentary on the text and not intended to be a replacement or to take the place of a Buddhist teaching. Hopefully looking through and reading this post will trigger a greater understanding and interest in reading the Diamond Sutra to add to our knowledge and understanding of how humans have interpreted the world they lived in at that moment in time, and maybe there are still some gems to be found that will alter our lives in a positive way and affect our contemporary world. 

“Death is not an event in life: we do not live to experience death. If we take eternity to mean not infinite temporal duration but timelessness, then eternal life belongs to those who live in the present.”

-Ludwig Wittgenstein

1. Anyone can carry the wisdom of Buddha or be buddha. Jesus says that anyone having the heart of a child will enter heaven.

Buddha is simple, no material possessions are described to be in his possession. He wears a robe, carries a bowl and that's all. Where is the buddha necklace, the sandals, or the headdress? Lack of material desire?

2. There is a right way and wrong way of doing things, tactfully or abruptly, but what is the intention, the intentions behind actions is what one should consider and examine. How do we honor others? How mindful are we of the interconnectedness between us and the unwisdom that exists between all spaces.

3. When there is no longer an “I, me, mine” in our minds then that is when we've inched closer to nirvana, but we cannot just be detached. If we tap into the flow we will reemerge, but how is the question that one must ponder. Once we let go, what will be the end result, what or who will we become?

4. How do we give and share of ourselves with others? It's better to give than to receive, but who are we choosing to give to? Are we keeping tabs on those that we give to or choosing where or who receives our kindness? How valuable is it? Does our giving have any value? It is better to give unconditionally to anyone at any time. We give of ourselves with our time, effort and encouragement.

"Equally incalculable is the merit of the bodhisattva who practices charity without any attachment to appearances."

5. What we see isn't really what things are. All things that shine aren't made of gold. 

The Tathagata can be anything or anyone, it's not a static being or nonsense, it just is and as a result we cannot rely on appearances. Anyone or anything may have wisdom. We must be open to receiving the teachings of the way from an unexpected vehicle of delivery.

6. Death is the final outcome of anything that is conceived onto this world. A seedling will one day be a decaying mound of debris. Teachings, thoughts and ideas need to be used to help us get across obstacles, but also have to be temporary, we can't hold on to everything, even our beliefs, cars, home or children or our memories. Life is transitory, and life is fluid so why put value on things and non-things? The use of our knowledge is temporary and will grow.

7. There is no chapter seven, seven has never existed, what we have been reading is an illusion of that imagined thing. The words deciphered create a labyrinth in the mind, and the undecipherable leaves a cloud that engulfs everyone. By releasing ourselves from the shackles of what is around we tap into the truth which is nonexistent, eternal, ever present now.

8. If we seek, we may find it or may not, just be aware that there is no right or wrong way. Enlightenment is like a hummingbird, it seems that you can grasp it but it flies away, yet we can discover its dwelling and let it be. It will perch on the thinnest branch that sways with the wind, and will allow us the privilege to admire its existence. Buddha teachings are actually no teachings. Yet a sign post is put for a reason, yet its message cannot be held or contained forever. Some teachings have lasting merit while others must be discarded after its usefulness has been exhausted, the old ways of living no longer apply to our present conundrums. We crawl out of developmental necessity as a baby, we crawl out of need as adults and do so when needed, we grow as a society according to the needs of the people.

9. What kind of giving are we engaged in? Do we give materials or give knowledge? Do we give opportunities or hand out things? Do we hand out knowledge or hand out things with our name on it? What do we give freely? What then is our religion? We are the vessel.

10. What we do depends on the inner peace that we have. We name and label things out of habit. We must transcend the labels. When we name and label we lose the essence of that which is named.

11. Merit lies in there being no merit, we open the doors to others and teach and explain the significance and meaninglessness of gratitude and giving. Material possessions are labels. Unformulated truth means that we are here in the present, labels and non-labels all are here. Evidence and experience must form our foundations, and then we must realize that all will disintegrate over time.

12. Lessons are learned in all kinds of circumstances, the way is found in the least expected places, we seek it or it finds us. If we become aware, then and there we should feel fortunate. The ground where we find enlightenment is sacred, enlightenment is everywhere and it will find us. We reach it independent of others and independent of time and the experience is singular, but also interconnected. The ground we walk is already sacred, it has given birth to us all.

13. School note- no distinctions, all is one. The separation that exists is only the air in between. Redwood, oak tree, all are trees, all are sacred, all is all. Wisdom comes from within and without, time and knowledge, wisdom and lessons are learned at one’s intended time. Tap into eternity and it will light your way.

14. School note- no distinctions, all is one. The separation that exists is only the air in between. The Name is nameless, this is very Dao De Jing like. There is no I, but then how do you approach the classroom where some have been “identified.” Charity isn’t charity. The Aztec sculpture of the mutilated body- what was its significance? Must have the heart of a child as Jesus says. We cannot purposefully seek to remain enlightened- this is tough. Thoughts may become fractured.

15. Wherever we are when we discover this teaching, when this lesson is learned, that place becomes sacred. The earth is sacred, time is sacred, submerge into the flow.

16. No matter where we are, enlightenment may strike, awareness of the unity and disunity of all comes into focus. If we are fortunate to hear and apply these ideas then we are truly there within the sacred.

17. Opening the door isn’t liberating, but hopefully it leads to greater awareness. If we rely on labels and claim enlightenment, then maybe think more carefully on what we are standing on. There is not one way to gain enlightenment. Don’t use labels, just do and do as best as you can.

18. Beings, we humans are beings, we like to distinguish ourselves from ants, but we all are beings, energy flows through us all. Be present, the past has passed, the future is out there, be here now.

19. Where are the reasons to have or seek merit? Do we give to give or give to be celebrated? Where does our merit spring from? Is it merit or is it a desire for merit or is it non-merit?

20. Perfection vs greatness. Who do we aspire to be? Why do we do what we do to ourselves? Better person vs better appearances, better person to others vs better inner being. Battles are always being waged.

21. The dharma is here, there, everywhere and in the world. Melting ice, vapors, fish, ants and lichen are there. The teachings are kept everywhere and are available at all times. Spiders are able to fly in the air with enough webbing attached to them.

22. Consummation of incomparable; consummation-the action of making marriage or relationship complete by making a Q. The point at which something is complete or finalized. Incomparable-without an equal in quality or extent, matchless. Unable to be compared, totally different in nature or extent. A marriage between being and the present awareness, mind, non-mind and time joining or separating. Being and Nothingness? The cycle continues.

23. Good deeds, bad deeds lead to a lesson, but will those actions lead one to ultimate awareness and enlightenment- All actions contain the seed of interpretations.

24. Teach, show, point, towards the awareness, tell others, guide them along the way, be present and be available. Remember that the time you give is more valuable than the things that you give away.

25. As a teacher this is important to keep and to meditate on. “Ego is not different from nonego……such is merely a name.” Embrace it all and reject none of it, the pain continues, but submerge into the flow and be carried away..

26. If we think you have found enlightenment, don’t fool yourself. If we think we’ve heard the way, most likely it's the wind. Let things be as they are. Be better and teach others the way, be positive in our intentions, but be mindful that even the positive may turn out to be negative. Live to live, live with integrity and accept all and none.

27. Reason isn't everything and doesn't guarantee the formula to the way. Perfect form or perfect duty such as morals or ethics doesn’t guarantee nirvana. There is no absolute way to enlightenment, all the waterways lead to the ocean, but there is no true ocean. The enlightenment of man, if fortunate to reach nirvana, is only that fortunate. As soon as he announces it it is forever lost. Do not let go of the fish, instead release.

28. Remember, if you teach only four lines of the Diamond Sutra you have attained merit, but the reward is nothing. Seek to teach, to spread the teaching and knowledge, not to reap the glory or rewards of the actions that have been taken.

29. The Tathagata is an enlightened one; a finder of truth; one who has attained perfection. Nirvana, enlightenment, wisdom and understanding, is a limitless possibility of realities. Lucky are those that attain these levels. Attention! Once you say it or label it, it is gone! Seek and cherish, teach but don't announce, seek merit but renounce glory.

30. This life can be spent trying to understand it all. In the end we are all made up of basic space elements, and this writing doesn’t exist. 

31. All that has been isn’t there or here any, and what is now has just disappeared, but how lucky are we who seek and come to an understanding that we live a dream, so let's live our best life, with the best of intentions.

32. Detachment from appearances. The poetry of life. We are not detached individuals, we are interconnected, all intertwined. Poetry on poetry. Let the smog, smoke and mist of material life be blown away by this awakened desire to find the way, and may the way become clear with sharp focus and that we make that connection and have a desire to be interconnected. 

Driving the Highway South: Prose

Driving the Highway South

By Armando Ortiz

Eight thousand miles and the coffee cup is cold, 

a constant  swish of passing cars cycle through the road, 

nights are longer, and cling on to me ever more

blowing winds from Michigan have been stalking.

Green pastures have turned dirty gold,

dawn and nightfall stay longer than the midday sun

the last crescent moon the Autumn shimmers 

slowly rising on the eternal apricot horizon.

Moon Over the High Desert: Road Trips from Los Angeles

Moon Over the High Desert

By Armando Ortiz

Driving on the Pearblossom Highway, anytime of the year, can be a magical experience, especially during a full moon. It offers a serene and reflective journey with breathtaking views of the Angeles, the San Bernardino and distant Mojave Mountains. Allow me to briefly explain why driving along this road is a worthwhile endeavor, especially during a full moon while heading east.

To begin your journey, you drive up the I-5 from LA and take the 14 north. Once on the 14, you continue until you hit Pearblossom Highway, where you exist and continue driving on for a while. Along this route, you pass by Palmdale, Little Rock and the town of Pearblossom. As you maintain a steady speed of 60 mph, the engine purrs like a cat, and a sense of surrealism washes over you. Thoughts of Victorville and visiting relatives become distant memories. Personally, I often take this road when I visit my relatives or when  there’s a major accident on the I-15 north, necessitating a detour in that direction.

While driving this section, especially in the late afternoon, I recommend playing your favorite tunes and savoring the moment. As the moon begins to rise over the Mojave Mountains, it casts a radiant glow akin to a giant spaceship emerging from the earth, evoking a sense of awe in the surrounding Joshua trees. The moon’s luminous light gradually spreads west, illuminating desert mountains. Its glow paints shadows of Creosote bushes and sagebrush on the ground. The spectacle begins to take place late in the afternoon, just before the sun sinks below the horizon, when the sky transforms into a deep orange hue that rapidly fades westward.

Taking a drive through this frontier, one of the few remaining desert backcountry environments in Los Angeles County, is an experience worth having throughout the year. Residents of LA should make it a point to drive along this highway at least once. Here, you can witness the desert fauna rarely seen in the city. The branches of the high desert trees resemble human arms stretching towards the heavens, frozen in time like statues holding the sky, waiting for the moon’s gentle touch. These trees seem to celebrate and honor the moon’s ascent from the depths of the distant mountain ranges. This yucca plant found here is aptly named, symbolizing the time Joshua kept the moon in place while raising his arms towards the sky in prayer.

Heading east on Highway 18, you’ll notice the dark silhouettes of giant yucca trees seemingly guiding the moon across the sky, moving it branch by branch, like miniature arms moving a white sphere. It’s as if they were directing it towards the Angeles Forest, where it descends below a sea of blinking lights that adorn the western slopes and coastline. The diverse desert bushes appear to dance in celebration to a rhythm known only to the wind and moon.

Frequent drives along this desert highway reveal subtle changes in the landscape. Life is a constant process of change and transformation, and the high desert exemplifies this truth. These changes become especially apparent during daylight hours. You might happen to see CalTrans widening a section of the highway or a house suddenly appearing where yucca trees once stood. A dirt road may now cut through the dry wash that flows during Spring. Construction crews seem to emerge out of thin air to complete the construction of a stoplight. Occasionally, you may spot crows soaring above, chasing after discarded hamburger wrappers. 

This land, once being mostly sagebrush, chaparral and desert plants just a few decades, years, or months ago, now appears devoid of life. Vast acreage is cleared as if a giant wooden block had been placed and later removed, leaving behind perfectly squared corners and open spaces. Sometimes, you come across makeshift communities of city squatters who have been pushed to the fringes of the city and into the high desert, their motorhome enclaves resembling wagon forts from a  bygone era.

As you continue your drive, the majestic Angeles Forest mountains, a constant backdrop to the city of Los Angeles, continue to fill their role. Here, the landscape takes on a juxtaposed nature. In the city, these mountains face south, but on this captivating drive, they face north. Aside from Palmdale, Little Rock or Pearblossom, there are no prominent cities or urban areas as you drive south. The homes that dot the mountainside seem to disappear into the chaparral during the middle of the day, blending seamlessly with the natural surroundings. At night, scattered yellow lights give the impression of Christmas decorations scattered across the land, occasionally accompanied by long robotic arms glowing- usually gravel companies working on their pits. Further along your drive, these lights indicate the presence of Valyermo and Phelan, towns nestled closer to the mountain range.  

Driving through this highway is a year around adventure, with each season offering its own unique character and feel. Winter unveils mesmerizing lights adorning the local ski resorts, flickering through the night as they create artificial snow. During the day, after a major storm, the mountains don a thick blanket of snow which can be seen for miles. The northern face, receiving the least amount of sunlight, combined with the absence of air pollution, presents truly spectacular mountain views. Spring, too, can be quite special too, with gentle brush strokes orange, purple, lavender, yellow, and white sweeping across the high desert landscape. As you roll down your window, the air feels cool and clean. In a good rainy season, millions of vibrant orange poppies dance with the wind as you traverse the 14 north. Later in the season, stoic Joshua trees, along with other yucca plants, proudly display their white stems holding delicate white pods containing seeds, while bushes bloom in shades of yellow and white. In the distance, the Angeles mountains still boast their snowy crowns.

Summer and Autumn transform the drive along this highway into a dreamlike experience. Despite the hot and dry weather, there is much to relish. If you drive in the opposite direction, you’ll get treated to dramatic sunsets behind the Tehachapi Mountains. Sunrises are equally captivating, with hues of yellow, orange, purple and blue blending seamlessly across the sky. The wind during this time serves as a reminder of why the resilient desert fauna that has withstood the test of time. It’s also the perfect opportunity to pull over and admire the stars on a clear night or to quench your thirst with a refreshing blueberry smoothie from Charlie Brown Farms in Little Rock. During this period, the yucca plants release their seeds to the ground, and other desert plants fill the desert air with a fragrant aroma. This desert environment also experiences  its fair share of monsoon weather, and late summer flash floods serve as a reminder of nature's unpredictable power.

For an exploratory detour, you can take the 138 and connect to highway 2 on the San Bernardino side. By making a right turn on Sheep Creek Rd, you’ll have the opportunity to traverse the mountain crest, winding through the backbone of the range and reenter Los Angeles through La Canada. Alternatively, you can continue on Highway 18, passing Adelanto and venturing into Victorville. Here, you can find a place to have lunch or continue on your road adventure by joining Interstate 15 and heading south towards Hesperia. As you descend along the highway, winding your way down El Cajon Pass, glimpses of urban life gradually emerge through the city lights of San Bernardino and Riverside county, along the connecting nodes of the I-215, I-10, and Highway 60.

In Southern California, where car ownership is prevalent, day trips are a common pastime. Traveling north past the mountains can create special memories, and provide a relaxing and reflective experience. The drive also allows you to appreciate the remaining wilderness that exists just an hour away from where we live. It serves as a reminder that this ecological region is a desert environment, and the unique flora and fauna should be appreciated and respected. Even after a summer rain, you can catch the lingering scent of sagebrush and native plants in the humid air. A journey along this highway becomes a rediscovery and a discovery of something special, connecting us with nature and ourselves.

Guarding Los Angeles: Short Story

 

Guarding Los Angeles

By Armando Ortiz

He entered the room complaining, “The problem with Los Angeles is the fact that what represents Los Angeles is not really spoken about.” Timur was a bit startled, both as a surprise and as if being awakened by a dream after spending a steady 20 minutes on the novel he was reading. 

“Today I was reading a magazine that United Airlines supplies on its flights, and there was an article about Los Angeles, and it just bothered me so much!” complained Juan as he looked down to the ground. The other guard, Timur, was packing his things to clock out and inquired, “huh, what are you talking about?” 

“There was nothing meaningful about it,” he continued to ramble, “The first two paragraphs were dedicated to the ethnic communities in Los Angeles making and taking root. Yet, as soon as that was done it began to talk about spending three nice fulfilling days in Los Angeles, but most of the places were for shopping,” he paused as he placed his duffle bag on the table and began to take out the tie. “None of the days included a walk down Olvera street or a meal in Little Tokyo, Chinatown, Little Armenia, nor Little Ethiopia. Why?,” he stood erect and looked out the window deep in thought. “Is only the fact that Los Angeles is one of the most cosmopolitan centers in the world enough to satisfy a tourist? What about the person who has lived all his life here in Los Angeles? I think not.” 

He turned to look at the Timur who was already packed and holding the clipboard. He kept going with his speech,  “Los Angeles is more, at least to me, than Beverly Hills and Santa Monica Beaches. I mean give me a fucken break. What happened to visiting places that actually set the trends, where people are eking out a living, eating and wearing what their hard-earned money get them?”

Timur placed the board on the desk and turned around, “well, feel lucky to be living where you were born.” Tim took a deep breath to look at Juan, “There isn’t a Little Ulaanbaatar here in LA, and I am constantly being mistaken for an Asian.” 

Juan stopped and thought about what Timur was saying. “People only know two things about Mongolia, Genghis Khan and Mongolian barbecue which really isn’t. They don’t know of our history, our wrestling, our religion, our inclusiveness, we are just some former bearded savages that were tamed by the Chinese or Russians.” He grabbed his bag, moving out of the chair, and sat placing the bag on his knees. He stared at Juan who was listening.

Juan restarted, “Although I love this place, I feel a detachment. I feel like I don’t belong here, but how can that be? I grew up going to the Griffith Park Observatory, and going to the LA Zoo, but now it seems that these things are becoming less and less accessible, and yet places like Chinatown or Grand Central Market that were once overlooked are now trafficked by new faces and fatter pockets.” 

Timur listened to him intently, he too got lost in the ramble and began to think of going to the countryside in the summers, and eating stew in the winters. He took another deep breath, and replied, “Somehow I feel like you are describing my current situation. You know what I try to remind myself is that I am where I am and I will be the best of whatever opportunity comes my way.”  

Juan resumed with his river of complaints, “It seems like more material silicon is being applauded and praised than what Los Angeles really stands for. I refuse to see Los Angeles only for its entertainment and high life. There are more working class people living in Los Angeles than those with money, and the worst thing is that our leaders do not seem to point this out, and so I will write about the city that raised me and took part in my upbringing. 

Timur searched his chest pocket for a cigarette, but remembered the smoking policy and let go of the cigarette and adjusted his seat. “You might be right, Subotai, another one of our great generals, who people don't know about once spoke about appearances. How at a distance a little army could resemble a great army, yet a huge army could look like a single warrior walking the step.” 

“What do you mean by that,” enquired Juan. 

“Things aren’t what they seem to be in reality or on paper,” he paused. “Before moving here I thought I’d be living in a neighborhood where only white Americans live, but when I came here I came to live in a community that’s called Little Tel Aviv, but my neighbors are mostly Mexican or I think they are, and Ethiopian or I think they are. We thought that the streets were clean and that all people ate hamburgers, but that wasn’t the case. In short, my friend, I was disappointed, I too was fooled, and every day people show me their foolishness.”