Peru Chronicles: Inca Trail Hike - Exploring the Path to Machu Picchu Part Two

 

Peru Chronicles: Inca Trail Hike - Exploring the Path to Machu Picchu Part Two

By Armando Ortiz

Into the Lush Andes:

As we continued, the path became greener, a sign that we were approaching the lusher side of the Andes. We were seven miles in, yet each turn revealed something new. Our guide stopped and pointed to the river we had been following–the Urubamba. It winds through the Sacred Valley before merging into the Amazon. In a way, we were seeing the Amazon itself. I gazed at the river, imagining its vast journey and the communities it sustained.

A Film Scene Come to Life:

I was then taken back to the first ten minutes of Herzog's film. I imagined being a soldier in that army of land pirates on my way to a lost city. “This must have been where they filmed it,” I thought. “I’ve seen this before.” The film had captured the mountains, clouds, and winding trail well- but now, I was inside that very scene. 

I watched trekkers descending the same stretch I had hiked two kilometers earlier, while my own group ascended behind me. For a moment, it felt like I had wandered into Herzog’s film, retracing the steps of his lost conquistadors.

We weren’t drifting down the river like Aguirre nor renouncing our homelands in search of gold. I discovered something beautiful to bring back: the memory of these mountain ranges and the river. As many Peruvians had told us prior to this hike, Machu Picchu has a lot of positive energy. It leaves you in awe. There’s something undeniably special about this place.

As we hiked, I told Yeny about another Herzog film, where a madman hauls a boat over a mountain to build a theater. The same actor starred in Aguirre, but this time, he played Fritzcarraldo. It was during the filming of that movie that the native extras offered to kill him for the director.” She just smiled and nodded. I, on the other hand, couldn’t shake these films from my mind.

The Final Climb to Machu Picchu:

We were down to three more kilometers before arriving in Machu Picchu, but before that we’d have to go through subtropical terrain where ancient plants like ferns and orchids grow wild. Just before Inti Punku, the Sun Gate, the final eighty to ninety feet would be the steepest climb. But the reward was worth it- from here, Machu Picchu came into view, and the trail finally descended.

The trail continued down and opened up into Machu Picchu. After seeing countless images of Machu Picchu- tourists posing before its vast ruins, many remarking on its unexpected scale- I was finally here. The sheer scale of the site struck me- its magnitude, its importance to humanity. I walked the same ground the Inca once did. It was a magical moment. 

Standing Among History:

Some terraces remained covered in overgrowth, hinting at how much of the city lay hidden beneath time– just as the ruins we had passed along the trail hinted at a forgotten past.

I also imagined runners in their early 20s taking these long treks, and having a place to rest where food was available. A place to bathe and relax, while farmers transported supplies to these sites with caravans of llamas. 

This hike deepened my curiosity about the Inca, the trail, and Peru’s geography.

The Inca Trail- A Journey Through Time:

In total, we hiked about nine miles from the trailhead to the bus that took us to Aguas Calientes. The hike took most of the day with about 9 hours of hiking, which included pausing for our guide’s historical explanations, to ask questions, and to take breaks for snacks. 

We were a group of 13, moving together as one. For future hikers: the group moves as a unit, which may affect pacing. Total elevation gain was 2,744 feet, which means that about five and a half to six miles of the trail will include stairs and ascents. 

With each step, I felt the weight of history beneath my feet. The Inca Trail was more than a hike–it was a journey through time, one step into the past with each ascent.

Peru Chronicles: Inca Trail Hike - Exploring the Path to Machu Picchu

Peru Chronicles: Inca Trail Hike - Exploring the Path to Machu Picchu

By Armando Ortiz

Starting the Inca Trail at KM 104:

The Inca Trail, rich in history and stunning landscapes, offers an unforgettable journey to Machu Picchu. Our adventure began at 4 a.m. with a pick up near Plaza San Blas in Cusco, nestled within granite walls that once housed the Inca elite. After gathering our group, we headed to Ollantaytambo, where we took the train to the KM 104 stop. 

At the trailhead, we crossed the Urubamba River bridge, stretched, and warmed up for the trek ahead. After a short debrief, we started our hike. Our guide, Ruben, stopped every 20-30 minutes to share stories about the archaeological sites or unique fauna along the trail.

Our first stop was a set of ruins, once a rest area for Inca runners traveling the vast empire. Only the walls and remnants of baths remained, but they offered a glimpse into the intricate network that once connected this civilization.

Magical Waterfalls Along the Inca Trail:

Before lunch, we rested at a small hut offering much-needed shade from the intense high-altitude sun. Some of us snacked on provisions, while others gazed at the distant archeological sites that resembled weathered staircases carved into the mountain.

Further along, we came to a waterfall that felt almost magical. Butterflies flitted along the water’s edge, and trekkers paused to snap photos. Yeny waded into the shallow pool, while I removed my boots and dipped my feet into the icy water. 

For a moment, the rushing falls drowned out every other sound. The chatter of hikers faded, and I found myself lost in the serenity of the moment. My feet tingled, almost numb from the cold, as I marveled at the serenity of the trail’s hidden gem. 

Contemplating Nature along the Terraces:

Rejuvenated, we continued our journey and reached a site where medicinal herbs were once cultivated. The terraces, with their steep stairways, seemed surreal, as if carved directly into the mountainside.

Andean swallows darted overhead, soaring gracefully into the green canyons before streaking back past us like shadows. Watching them, I imagined exploring the mountains as freely as those birds, discovering every hidden corner. 

As I paused to rest, the endless layers of terraces filled me with awe. I marveled at the ancient knowledge required to build such an enduring legacy– an understanding of rocks, water flow, wind patterns, and the best placements for crops. These reflections swirled in my mind leaving me in awe of the ingenuity of the Inca people. 

Having Lunch at Winay Huayna:

At the midway point, we reached Winay Huayna, or ‘Forever Young’ in Quecha, a stunning archeological site with agricultural terraces and water channels. Lunch awaited us, prepared by porters who had raced ahead.

We entered a makeshift tent with a long table and enough chairs for our group. The meal, fit for royalty and Incan runners, began with a warm soup, followed by a feast of fried trout, cheese, avocado, lomo saltado, potatoes, and fresh salad. Drinks included water, chicha and tea, with filtered water available to refill bottles. We ate to our heart’s content and felt completely satisfied.

The meal brought a sense of camaraderie as we chatted about the hike and our preparations. Seated across from us, a couple from Texas introduced themselves- Taylor, an internal medicine doctor, and Tyler, a biology instructor. They asked our thoughts on the train performance, which led me to recall Werner Herzog’s film Aguirre, the Wrath of God.

Referencing a film about conquistadors may have seemed obscure, but the train performance’s exaggerated dubbing mirrored the surreal energy of Aguirre. The traditional Inca costumes and theatrical gestures reminded me of the film's eccentric protagonist and his chaotic journey through the Andean jungle.

Looking Ahead:

As we packed up to continue, the surreal blend of history, nature, and personal moments lingered in my mind. The Inca Trail had already etched itself into my memory, and the promise of Machu Picchu ahead filled us with anticipation.

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Herzog’s Aguirre

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Herzog’s Aguirre

By Armando Ortiz

Inca Trail - Part One: Reflections on a Film:

My first glimpse of the Inca Trail came through Werner Herzog’s film Aguirre, the Wrath of God. Back then, as a regular at the local video rental store, I often noticed the film’s striking cover: Klaus Kinski’s crazed expression as the titular character, Aguirre. Eventually, I rented the movie, drawn by its exotic imagery. At the time, I saw it as a surreal fable, a tale of conquistadors in helmets juxtaposed with indigenous people in vibrant beanies. Kinski played the crazed soldier gone mad, seeming out of place in the lush green environment, his demeanor almost alien. The setting- a humid, swampy jungle– didn’t quite align with the costumes, and I struggled to make sense of it.

As I grew older, the film’s premise became clearer: the pursuit of gold and glory for the Spanish Crown. Yet, as someone whose education revolved around North American, U.S., and Meso-American history, I hadn’t connected the story to the Inca civilization or life under Spanish rule. My understanding of geography and human environment interaction was limited. One of my university classmates once mentioned that the rapper Tupac was named after Tupac Amaru, a Peruvian leader, but even then, Peru’s history felt distant and unfamiliar.

Before leaving for Peru, I revisited the film, watching the first 15 minutes. This time, the mist-shrouded green mountains and narrow trails carved on to sheer cliffs captivated me. The imagery was haunting yet magical- a line of soldiers and enslaved men snaking precariously along the trail, their journey echoing the danger of the llama that slipped and fell into the abyss below. As the train carried us to the trailhead, the eerie resemblance between Herzog’s landscapes and the unfolding reality stayed with me.

The train ride itself evoked an odd deja vu. Herzog’s original German dialogue was poorly synced with the English dub, resulting in voices that didn’t match the actors. A performance by the crew in our train car echoed the film’s mismatched dubbing: English voices floated from hidden speakers, out of sync with the actors’ lips. It was as if Aguirre himself were speaking in an unsettling, borrowed voice.

Later, I learned that Herzog had filmed parts of Aguirre at Machu Picchu, on the Huayna Picchu trail, and along the Peruvian Amazon. His main character, based on the historical Lope de Aguirre, led an expedition to conquer Peru via Panama. Defying orders, Aguirre sought to rewrite history in his favor. But his rebellion ended in 1561 when he was captured, dismembered, and executed. Herzog also drew inspiration from Gaspar de Carvajal, a Dominican friar who chronicled a similar journey along the Amazon two decades earlier.

The film, released in December 1972, immortalized these landscapes and themes of ambition, madness and conquest. Revisiting it before my journey added a surreal layer to my anticipation. As I prepared to walk those trails, the film’s haunting imagery lingered, merging history and myth with the undeniable pull of the Andes. For the first time, the Inca Trail felt less like a distant fable and more like a real, living connection to the past I was about to experience.

Anza-Borrego State Park: Road trip and Camping

Anza-Borrego State Park: Road trip and Camping

By Armando Ortiz

Introduction to Area and Road Trip

Anza-Borrego State Park lies in Southern California’s central interior, bordered by Ocotillo to the south near the Mexican border, Julian and Ramona to the west, the Salton Sea to the east, and the Palomar Mountains to the north. Once submerged under water, this region holds evidence of human presence dating back thousands of years.

The best time to visit is in Spring or Fall, though Winter can also be pleasant. Summers, however, bring intense heat. From downtown Los Angeles the drive takes about four hours, including potentially heavy traffic on I-15 South. My preferred route from Temecula winds through diverse landscapes, from chaparral to desert vistas, offering a peaceful escape from the busier highways.

Background of Anza Borrego

For centuries, Indigenous groups lived in this region, leaving behind mortar sites used to process seeds like juniper berries, and agave. The Kumeyaay are the group most closely associated with the area, though others, such as the Cahuilla, traveled here seasonally. The park takes its name from Juan de Anza, who traveled and explored the area in the 1700s, as he was heading northwest into California’s interior. Today, the desert landscape attracts permanent residents and visitors alike from across Southern California, drawn by its stark beauty and natural wonders. 

Activities in Anza-Borrego

Hiking is popular in and around the park, best enjoyed during the cooler months of winter and spring. Summers can be dangerous due to the extreme heat. Trails vary in difficulty; some are accessible by sedan, while others require high-clearance, four wheel drive vehicles. Off-roading is another common pastime- you’ll often see caravans of Jeeps, Tacomas and 4Runners, as well as campers being hauled by full size trucks.

Ancient Native American sites can be reached by combining hiking and off-roading. An all-wheel drive vehicle can shorten hikes, but most sites are accessible via trails of up to two miles. The park is also known for its unique iron sculptures, scattered across the desert landscape around the town of Borrego Springs. These artworks emerge on the horizon, though reaching some may require navigating unmarked trails to reach. The night turns magical as you observe the Milky Way stretching across the sky. 

Ending and review

Anza Borrego feels less desolate as other California desert parks, thanks to its nearby eateries and hotels. To fully enjoy its unique offerings, plan an overnight stay- either camping or at a local hotel. The landscape features agave, ocotillos, barrel cacti, and desert palm give it a distinct charm. Spring, especially after a wet season, is another excellent time to visit.

On our way home, we often stop in Julian, CA, a charming mountain town known for its apple pies, really good burgers, and rustic ambiance. Located at higher elevation, Julian offers a cool, green contrast to the desert’s stark beauty, with pine and oak forests. 

Drive along Highway 78 to Julian, the scenery transforms from barren, rocky mountains dotted with cactus to chaparral, then to lush woodlands. The sudden transition highlights the unique microclimates of the area, making Julian feel like a cool retreat after the desert’s intensity. 

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Exploring Lima

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Exploring Lima

By Armando Ortiz

Lima Food Tour, the Coast, and Centro Historico:

The next day, we took an uber to the Barranco Plaza. Though the morning was gray and drizzly, the excitement of being in a new city was exciting. Our day would soon unfold in a whirlwind of vibrant colors and flavors. After arriving, we hopped into a tuk-tuk taxi bound for the local market. There, we tried different fruits that we had never tasted before and indulged in a variety of sandwiches and local dishes - enough to skip lunch entirely. The market tour was both enlightening and satisfying.

Afterward, we wandered down to the beach, strolling along an old cobblestone road that led us to the shoreline. Along the way, we noticed groups of students taking school pictures- a common sight throughout our trip.  Our next stop was the historic center of Lima. Despite the slow, traffic-clogged taxi ride, the anticipation of exploring the city’s core kept us going. When we arrived, the hustle and bustle of the plaza felt welcoming. The sky began to clear, revealing turkey vultures circling overhead, many perched on the towers of the grand Lima Cathedral.

We wandered around, taking photos of the surrounding avenues and landmarks, including the Presidential Palace. At the cathedral, we stumbled upon a wedding ceremony in full swing. Military-dressed men led the bride’s limousine, and we watched as she was greeted by her parents before entering the church. Intrigued, we continued exploring the historical center, snapping photos of the elegant, timeworn streets. Another wedding awaited us at La Merced Church, a stunning five-century-old building. The church was open to both guests and passersby, offering us a unique opportunity to observe the ceremony as tourists mingled with locals.

Feeling hungry, we set out in search of a snack and stumbled upon a coffee shop museum. The cafe boasted a wide selection of local brews, which we savored before heading to the House of Peruvian Literature. There, we explored an exhibit detailing Peru's linguistic history and how language shapes identity, culture and art. It was an enlightening and deeply educational experience.

By the time we returned to the main plaza, the wedding ceremony we had seen earlier was still in progress, and lively music echoed through the air. A festive gathering was underway, with trumpets, trombones, tubas filling the plaza with Andean sounds. We watched the bride and groom dance with their family in a circle, the elderly women dressed in traditional Andean attire, while the younger guests wore modern ceremonial outfits. Witnessing this celebration added an intimate, unforgettable layer to our trip.

Our day wasn’t complete without trying some local street food. We asked a nearby officer for recommendations and were directed toward a street by the Presidential Palace. The scent of grilled meat led us to a bustling corner, where we found stalls serving anticuchos- beef heart skewers. The smell was intoxicating. We ordered anticuchos with potatoes, adding spicy aji sauce, which elevated the already delicious meal to new heights. Feeling like we had truly immersed ourselves in the local experience, we savored every bite. As evening grew, we made our way back to the plaza, full and content, and caught the bus to Barranco to close out our day. 

Part 2: Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Exploring Lima

Roberto Bolano's Cowboy Graves: Book Review

Roberto Bolano’s Cowboy Graves: Book Review

By Armando Ortiz

Roberto Bolano’s collection, Cowboy Graves, was published posthumously in 2017. The English translation was released in 2021. Known for his novels 2666, and Savage Detectives Bolano offers readers three novelettes that are partly biographical and woven into his broader literary world. This collection serves both as an introduction to Bolano’s world and as stand alone narratives that will captivate fans. The tales explore themes of revolution, artistic ambition, and identity, set against the backdrop of society’s underbelly. Bolano’s characters grapple with antisocial tendencies, revolutionary aspirations, and the challenges of navigating life’s unpredictable events, yet they hold onto the hope of changing the world.

In the first novelette, Cowboy Graves, we meet Arturo Belano, a Chilean born in Concepcion, who moves to Mexico City and later returns to Chile. Through Arturo’s recollections of his father, Bolano explores themes of identity and belonging. Arturo recalls moments with his father, a man torn between bravado and a desire to display his Mexican vaquero roots. In Mexico City, Arturo forms a friendship with “The Grub” as is drawn to leftist ideologies, prompting his return to Chile and joining the revolution. However, his outsider status leads to incarceration and violence. Despite the challenges he faces, Arturo’s love for literature remains his lighthouse like an unmovable rocky coastline. Following Arturo’s journey, the second novelette introduces a new character in a different setting. In this case he is offered a chance to go into exile in France, but also to live in the sewers of Paris.

In French Comedy of Horrors, a young poet in Guyana that has just witnessed an eclipse decides to take the long way home only to find himself lured into the underground world of surrealists by a phone call from Paris. The caller attempts to convince him to relocate to Paris, promising an artistic awakening. This story delves into the multifaceted nature of literature, contrasting mainstream and unconventional writing. Bolano highlights the choices writers face: pursuing fame or evoking emotions and actions. Yet, it is the individual who decides what community he will join or what lane his art will take. Ultimately, the story underscores the idea that whatever path we choose, we may become exiles due to our art, ideas, or geographical moves.

The third novelette, Fatherland, reflects on the concept of homeland and its implications for both Bolano’s characters and the reader. It prompts reflection on how we define our place of birth and lineage, asking whether we reside in the motherland or fatherland. This story expands on Bolano’s experiences in Chile and the leftist revolution, but also contemplates physical and mental exile. It examines how past, present and future environments influence writers and their creations. In this way, Bolano invites readers to ponder the impermanence of places, material possessions, identities, and even ourselves.

The stories in Cowboy Graves are engaging and original, though parts of “The Grub” appear in The Savage Detectives. Additionally, the scene where Arturo shares his fiction with a Jesuit echoes themes from another of Bolano’s novels. Nevertheless, like much of Bolano’s work, these posthumously published stories challenge readers to explore the motivations behind their writing and inspire them to continue their creative journeys. They also serve as a mirror, reflecting on our favorite writers, the makeup of our identities, and how life’s contexts lead us to make unexpected choices that can result in voluntary or involuntary exile. Bolano’s Cowboy Graves not only enriches our understanding of his literary universe but also invites us to reflect on our own artistic ambitions and identities.

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Day of Arrival

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Day of Arrival

By Armando Ortiz

Day of Arrival:

We landed in Lima, Peru and went to the district of Barranco, staying in an Airbnb room near Miraflores. The view from our room, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, was breathtaking- a million dollar view. It felt like staying in a beachside hotel in Santa Monica, especially on this cool, overcast day. The charm of the place was something any Angeleno would appreciate.

After settling in and freshening up, we headed out to explore the boulevards leading to Miraflores. We walked north along Avenida Reducto, turned west on Avenida 28 de Julio, and eventually found ourselves walking north along Avenida Jose Larco. After a satisfying dinner at El Misterio del Inka, we continued exploring and wandered into Kennedy Park where we stumbled upon the tail end of a public poetry reading. The park was brimming with people coming and going and enjoying the lively atmosphere as if the pulse of the city were here.

Nearby, we discovered a place similar to the Soda Fountain Pharmacies that were common in the U.S. many years ago. El Parque D’Onofrio offered an array of ice creams and creative concoctions. Families filled the space, enjoying dinner or indulging in a wide array of ice creams and desserts. The place had a family-friendly atmosphere, bustling with locals and tourists alike. We ordered some picarones- a sweet treat with hints of clover and cinnamon that balanced out the cool night. I’d never been in a place that seemed to have a hustle and bustle with couples, families, tourists just walking around, having a meal, a drink or a snack.

As we strolled further, we found something unexpected: a cat motel for the park’s many stray cats. Vendors lined the park selling popcorn, rice pudding and other snacks. With our picarones in hand, we soaked in the atmosphere before finally making our way back to the Airbnb for the night.

Part 1: Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Introduction

Part 3: Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Exploring Lima

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Introduction

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Introduction

By Armando Ortiz

Introduction

We initially planned to hike the Inca Trail before the pandemic. At that time, our goal was to complete the full four-day trek, camping for three nights along the way. However, when worldwide Covid-19 lockdowns hit, all those plans were put on hold. Four years later, we revisited our original plans and decided to hike the Inca Trail- but this time for the shorter version.

 

The shorter version is a one-day, 8 mile hike that ends in Machu Picchu. Starting at Kilometer 104, we would spend most of the day hiking, culminating at the Sun Gate, where we’d be greeted with breathtaking views of Machu Picchu.

 

In the months leading up to the trip, we spent considerable time preparing for the hike. We gradually increased the length, elevation, and intensity of our training hikes. Despite a few injuries and minor setbacks, we stayed committed. Our training culminated with two challenging hikes: Kearsarge Pass Trail and Mt Wilson Trail to Orchard Camp. In the weeks before departure, I found myself watching videos on what to expect, researching the weather, and compiling a list of things I wanted to experience once in Peru.

We aimed to pack as light as possible, but knowing we’d be doing several long hikes, we had to bring hiking gear as well. Peru’s diverse geography also posed a packing challenge, as different regions have distinct climates. For example, Lima, located along the Pacific Coast at an elevation of about 500 to 1,500 feet above sea level. Has mild winter temperatures, so warmth wasn’t our main concern there. 

However, Cusco sits at 11,000 feet above sea level, which meant that both the altitude and the cold would be a challenge. We had to consider layering clothing, sturdy hiking shoes, and headgear to cope with the conditions. Luckily, Peru is famous for its alpaca wool clothing, which offers excellent warmth.

Part 2: Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Day of Arrival