Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Exploring Lima

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Exploring Lima

By Armando Ortiz

Lima Food Tour, the Coast, and Centro Historico:

The next day, we took an uber to the Barranco Plaza. Though the morning was gray and drizzly, the excitement of being in a new city was exciting. Our day would soon unfold in a whirlwind of vibrant colors and flavors. After arriving, we hopped into a tuk-tuk taxi bound for the local market. There, we tried different fruits that we had never tasted before and indulged in a variety of sandwiches and local dishes - enough to skip lunch entirely. The market tour was both enlightening and satisfying.

Afterward, we wandered down to the beach, strolling along an old cobblestone road that led us to the shoreline. Along the way, we noticed groups of students taking school pictures- a common sight throughout our trip.  Our next stop was the historic center of Lima. Despite the slow, traffic-clogged taxi ride, the anticipation of exploring the city’s core kept us going. When we arrived, the hustle and bustle of the plaza felt welcoming. The sky began to clear, revealing turkey vultures circling overhead, many perched on the towers of the grand Lima Cathedral.

We wandered around, taking photos of the surrounding avenues and landmarks, including the Presidential Palace. At the cathedral, we stumbled upon a wedding ceremony in full swing. Military-dressed men led the bride’s limousine, and we watched as she was greeted by her parents before entering the church. Intrigued, we continued exploring the historical center, snapping photos of the elegant, timeworn streets. Another wedding awaited us at La Merced Church, a stunning five-century-old building. The church was open to both guests and passersby, offering us a unique opportunity to observe the ceremony as tourists mingled with locals.

Feeling hungry, we set out in search of a snack and stumbled upon a coffee shop museum. The cafe boasted a wide selection of local brews, which we savored before heading to the House of Peruvian Literature. There, we explored an exhibit detailing Peru's linguistic history and how language shapes identity, culture and art. It was an enlightening and deeply educational experience.

By the time we returned to the main plaza, the wedding ceremony we had seen earlier was still in progress, and lively music echoed through the air. A festive gathering was underway, with trumpets, trombones, tubas filling the plaza with Andean sounds. We watched the bride and groom dance with their family in a circle, the elderly women dressed in traditional Andean attire, while the younger guests wore modern ceremonial outfits. Witnessing this celebration added an intimate, unforgettable layer to our trip.

Our day wasn’t complete without trying some local street food. We asked a nearby officer for recommendations and were directed toward a street by the Presidential Palace. The scent of grilled meat led us to a bustling corner, where we found stalls serving anticuchos- beef heart skewers. The smell was intoxicating. We ordered anticuchos with potatoes, adding spicy aji sauce, which elevated the already delicious meal to new heights. Feeling like we had truly immersed ourselves in the local experience, we savored every bite. As evening grew, we made our way back to the plaza, full and content, and caught the bus to Barranco to close out our day. 

Part 2: Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Exploring Lima

Roberto Bolano's Cowboy Graves: Book Review

Roberto Bolano’s Cowboy Graves: Book Review

By Armando Ortiz

Roberto Bolano’s collection, Cowboy Graves, was published posthumously in 2017. The English translation was released in 2021. Known for his novels 2666, and Savage Detectives Bolano offers readers three novelettes that are partly biographical and woven into his broader literary world. This collection serves both as an introduction to Bolano’s world and as stand alone narratives that will captivate fans. The tales explore themes of revolution, artistic ambition, and identity, set against the backdrop of society’s underbelly. Bolano’s characters grapple with antisocial tendencies, revolutionary aspirations, and the challenges of navigating life’s unpredictable events, yet they hold onto the hope of changing the world.

In the first novelette, Cowboy Graves, we meet Arturo Belano, a Chilean born in Concepcion, who moves to Mexico City and later returns to Chile. Through Arturo’s recollections of his father, Bolano explores themes of identity and belonging. Arturo recalls moments with his father, a man torn between bravado and a desire to display his Mexican vaquero roots. In Mexico City, Arturo forms a friendship with “The Grub” as is drawn to leftist ideologies, prompting his return to Chile and joining the revolution. However, his outsider status leads to incarceration and violence. Despite the challenges he faces, Arturo’s love for literature remains his lighthouse like an unmovable rocky coastline. Following Arturo’s journey, the second novelette introduces a new character in a different setting. In this case he is offered a chance to go into exile in France, but also to live in the sewers of Paris.

In French Comedy of Horrors, a young poet in Guyana that has just witnessed an eclipse decides to take the long way home only to find himself lured into the underground world of surrealists by a phone call from Paris. The caller attempts to convince him to relocate to Paris, promising an artistic awakening. This story delves into the multifaceted nature of literature, contrasting mainstream and unconventional writing. Bolano highlights the choices writers face: pursuing fame or evoking emotions and actions. Yet, it is the individual who decides what community he will join or what lane his art will take. Ultimately, the story underscores the idea that whatever path we choose, we may become exiles due to our art, ideas, or geographical moves.

The third novelette, Fatherland, reflects on the concept of homeland and its implications for both Bolano’s characters and the reader. It prompts reflection on how we define our place of birth and lineage, asking whether we reside in the motherland or fatherland. This story expands on Bolano’s experiences in Chile and the leftist revolution, but also contemplates physical and mental exile. It examines how past, present and future environments influence writers and their creations. In this way, Bolano invites readers to ponder the impermanence of places, material possessions, identities, and even ourselves.

The stories in Cowboy Graves are engaging and original, though parts of “The Grub” appear in The Savage Detectives. Additionally, the scene where Arturo shares his fiction with a Jesuit echoes themes from another of Bolano’s novels. Nevertheless, like much of Bolano’s work, these posthumously published stories challenge readers to explore the motivations behind their writing and inspire them to continue their creative journeys. They also serve as a mirror, reflecting on our favorite writers, the makeup of our identities, and how life’s contexts lead us to make unexpected choices that can result in voluntary or involuntary exile. Bolano’s Cowboy Graves not only enriches our understanding of his literary universe but also invites us to reflect on our own artistic ambitions and identities.

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Day of Arrival

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Day of Arrival

By Armando Ortiz

Day of Arrival:

We landed in Lima, Peru and went to the district of Barranco, staying in an Airbnb room near Miraflores. The view from our room, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, was breathtaking- a million dollar view. It felt like staying in a beachside hotel in Santa Monica, especially on this cool, overcast day. The charm of the place was something any Angeleno would appreciate.

After settling in and freshening up, we headed out to explore the boulevards leading to Miraflores. We walked north along Avenida Reducto, turned west on Avenida 28 de Julio, and eventually found ourselves walking north along Avenida Jose Larco. After a satisfying dinner at El Misterio del Inka, we continued exploring and wandered into Kennedy Park where we stumbled upon the tail end of a public poetry reading. The park was brimming with people coming and going and enjoying the lively atmosphere as if the pulse of the city were here.

Nearby, we discovered a place similar to the Soda Fountain Pharmacies that were common in the U.S. many years ago. El Parque D’Onofrio offered an array of ice creams and creative concoctions. Families filled the space, enjoying dinner or indulging in a wide array of ice creams and desserts. The place had a family-friendly atmosphere, bustling with locals and tourists alike. We ordered some picarones- a sweet treat with hints of clover and cinnamon that balanced out the cool night. I’d never been in a place that seemed to have a hustle and bustle with couples, families, tourists just walking around, having a meal, a drink or a snack.

As we strolled further, we found something unexpected: a cat motel for the park’s many stray cats. Vendors lined the park selling popcorn, rice pudding and other snacks. With our picarones in hand, we soaked in the atmosphere before finally making our way back to the Airbnb for the night.

Part 1: Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Introduction

Part 3: Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Exploring Lima

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Introduction

Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Introduction

By Armando Ortiz

Introduction

We initially planned to hike the Inca Trail before the pandemic. At that time, our goal was to complete the full four-day trek, camping for three nights along the way. However, when worldwide Covid-19 lockdowns hit, all those plans were put on hold. Four years later, we revisited our original plans and decided to hike the Inca Trail- but this time for the shorter version.

 

The shorter version is a one-day, 8 mile hike that ends in Machu Picchu. Starting at Kilometer 104, we would spend most of the day hiking, culminating at the Sun Gate, where we’d be greeted with breathtaking views of Machu Picchu.

 

In the months leading up to the trip, we spent considerable time preparing for the hike. We gradually increased the length, elevation, and intensity of our training hikes. Despite a few injuries and minor setbacks, we stayed committed. Our training culminated with two challenging hikes: Kearsarge Pass Trail and Mt Wilson Trail to Orchard Camp. In the weeks before departure, I found myself watching videos on what to expect, researching the weather, and compiling a list of things I wanted to experience once in Peru.

We aimed to pack as light as possible, but knowing we’d be doing several long hikes, we had to bring hiking gear as well. Peru’s diverse geography also posed a packing challenge, as different regions have distinct climates. For example, Lima, located along the Pacific Coast at an elevation of about 500 to 1,500 feet above sea level. Has mild winter temperatures, so warmth wasn’t our main concern there. 

However, Cusco sits at 11,000 feet above sea level, which meant that both the altitude and the cold would be a challenge. We had to consider layering clothing, sturdy hiking shoes, and headgear to cope with the conditions. Luckily, Peru is famous for its alpaca wool clothing, which offers excellent warmth.

Part 2: Peru Chronicles: Mountains, Mysteries, and Machu Picchu - Day of Arrival

John Steinbeck's The Grapes of Wrath: Book Review and Reflections

John Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath: Book Review and Reflections

By Armando Ortiz

Is the migration of people a phenomenon that exists during one generation or is it something that has taken place hundreds of times for thousands of years? John Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath, published in 1939, captures the plight of Oklahoma farmers who lost their lands during the Great Depression. Steinbeck’s novel is one of the best novels I’ve read recently, resonating deeply with current migration issues as it explores the hardships faced by people displaced from their homes. 

I started reading Steinbeck’s novel a week before leaving for Peru and was completely engrossed by the plot. Once in Peru, the parallels between the Joad daily’s journey and the struggles of families migrating to the United States today became strikingly clear. This resemblance deepened my engagement with Steinbeck’s portrayal of resilience in the face of displacement. This review not only examines the novel but also reflects on its relevance on today’s migrants to the U.S.

The novel centers on the Joad family, particularly Tom Joad, as they struggle to survive in a rapidly changing world. In addition to chronicling the experiences that his characters go through he also describes the forces of nature over the American Southwest. The Joad family’s deep connection to their land is tested by unforgiving nature and relentless economic forces. During the Dust Bowl- a devastating drought in the mid-1930s Midwest- they struggle to maintain their home, only to be uprooted by banks prioritizing profit over people.

The banks and business interests of their property are not concerned for the wellbeing of people there. Locals in the countryside continue to lose their land to mechanized agriculture and are left with two options: try to get employed by those businesses or move somewhere else. The parcels lost by the families are the places they’ve called home for at least the last three generations. The uprooted family is forced to make tough decisions that will take them to California. 

The Joad family’s deep connection to their land mirrors the universal bond that many have with the earth- a bond often cut by forces beyond their control. As their fight against the banks becomes futile, this connection becomes a painful memory, pushing them toward a new hope in California. During my trek on the Inca Trail in Peru, a guide spoke of the spiritual connections people have with the earth, a sentiment that echoes in Steinbeck’s portrayal of Jim Casy and the Joad’s family’s bond to their land.

Ultimately, the Joad family abandons their fight against the banks and sets off for California, lured by pamphlets promising plentiful farming jobs and the hope of prosperity. For the Joads, the food, grapes and oranges, and the possibility of affording a home together draws them West. 

As the Joads journey west, their story eerily parallels the experiences of many Latin American migrants heading to the U.S. today, driven by similar hopes and hardships. People who decide to head North to where the myth of finding pennies on the ground or picking up used televisions on the corners is alive. 

Tragedy soon follows the Joads westward: their dog is killed, Grandpa Joad dies and is buried by the roadside, and eventually, Grandma Joad passes away. The family’s journey is marked by loss and abandonment, reflecting the harsh realities of displacement. Little by little the family loses members, and they abandon their material possessions.

The trials endured by the Joad family- loss, displacement, and the struggle for survival- are not relics of the past but living realities faced by countless migrants today. These scenes are poignantly mirrored today by the perilous journeys of migrants from South America to the U.S., who face immense hardships along routes like the Darien Gap. In South America, I witnessed first hand the strength of family and community ties, echoing the Joads’ experience of unity and loss. 

Just as Oklahoma served as a departure point for Dust Bowl migrants, towns in Colombia act as staging areas for those embarking on the perilous journey through the Darien Gap. Like many migrant families, the Joads family begin their journey united, but overtime, their cohesion erodes under the weight of tragedy and hardships.

In the midst of their journey, families like the Joads, are sadly separated by tragedy or necessity. Blood ties are not as strong as they once were. By watching videos and reading about the Darien Gap one learns that people begin to lighten their load once the weather, and terrain begin to take a toll on their bodies. Familial unity either becomes stronger or weakens. People get swept away by the rivers or get robbed by locals. The worst experience being one survivor of a five person family unit making it to the Panamanian refugee camp. 

Tragically, as Steinbeck illustrates, the hope of a  new beginning often demands a baptism of suffering. The renewal that comes with their move West has strings attached. Just as the Joad family faced discrimination, exploitation, and verbal abuse by the locals. Today there are politicians that blame our nation’s ills on illegal immigrants and asylum seekers. These new immigrants have become the new scapegoats for all that is bad in the country. 

Despite facing oppression from legal systems, neighbors and religious groups, the Joad family perseveres. They quickly adapt to their way of life and what keeps them moving forward is having a warm meal, but also a place to call their own. It is in their desperation, like immigrants today, where they find the strength to keep moving forward. 

Dispossessed and driven by necessity, today’s migrants, like the Joads, embody humanity at its rawest. Steinbeck’s novel compels us to recognize the enduring struggles of the poor and dispossessed, highlighting the shared human experience of seeking a better life amidst adversity.

Though written over 80 years ago, Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath remains a timeless exploration of forced migration and the universal quest for a better life. It shows us that there will always be a reason why people decide to put their lives at risk as they hold on to promises that are only that and that along the way they will have to find new ways to adapt and push forward towards a new and better life.

L.A. Mountain's Call: Prose

L.A. Mountain’s Call

By Armando Ortiz

My mind, 

a nomad’s wooden chest-

untouched mementos

gather dust, long forgotten.

A hiker on the trail,

this old mountain seems frozen,

I walk the long adobe road-

smells of wild weeds

and a cloud of baking dust

engulf my body as I near the turn;

a familiar, forgotten present.

L.A.’s mountainous backdrop, 

their slopes like weathered lemon peels,

fade into the city’s afternoon haze.

I disappear into the clay ground and chaparral

a figure in a timeless portrait.

Along the fireroad

deer forage the slopes.

Sunbathed cactus thirst for water

at the border of evergreen oak’s shade-

this is where I eternally wander.

Butterfly shadows

circle around me.

Signs warn of rattlesnakes,

but nature has its own bustle,

lost in its own pulse.

Only the slithering 

shadows of heat

radiating from the ground

are seen on this ascent, 

enduring coastal desert.

A diamondback lies still,

as silent as a dead branch-

danger at arm's length.

Calm and relaxed, it waits

Startled, I continue.

At the intersection, scents

join the trail to the barren mountain top,

treating me to spectacular views L.A.,

where the landmarks of the past are seen.

Standing at the summit,

a hummingbird zooms past,

reminding me it too is there.

Coyotes, the forever jokesters, play-

hide and go seek, even with the past.

As I turn back and descend

a school of wild quail,

is suddenly heard.

The male stands

on the top of an branch-

wearing a black top hat

and a zebra skin suit.

Strange characters live up here-

a diorama of memories,

Earth's procession of life.

Everything alive before my eyes,

sweaty and accomplished, I reach my car,

tomorrow, the hike will fade; 

my legs will ache,

but already, I hear the mountains call.

Blossoms of L.A. - Palo Verde

Blossoms of L.A. - Palo Verde

By Armando Ortiz

The palo verde 

rooted along quiet urban streets,

spring brings blossoms 

that vibrate with a glowing beat.

Bright green tips

bursting with yellow flowers,

making a delicate veil of lights

a bouquet for the eye’s delight.  

May mornings shaded by gray skies

the sounds of hummingbirds gives rise,

While these trees reach up to touch the air,

rising from front lawns, behind houses.

Rows of green protect avenues

others stand alone in open spaces,

some planted at street corners,

decorating the city with pulsating halo.

Winds clash- east or west breeze,

Or perhaps cold waters 

touching the arid coast will prevail

pulsating traffic might make it sway. 

Under desert noon, the trees grow vibrant

With Lemon yellows and lime greens

evoking thoughts of cool lemonade,

refreshing beneath the sunny day.

Native palo verde

rooted on this land,

gifts the city blossoms 

that vibrate with a growing heat.

A Quiet Retreat: Free-verse Reflections

 

A Quiet Retreat: Free-Verse Reflections

By Armando Ortiz

I sit here along the coast after a thirty minute drive on Pacific Coast Highway, lying on the sand, watching the waves roll in, each one bringing solace.

The crashing waves blend with memories of hiking the Sierras, where a cool breeze touched my skin as I prepared myself to enter the alpine lake. In the deepest silence, as the waters pulled back, a tiny mosquito pierced my skin with its sharp bite. 

Lost in thought, the crashing waves transform into a gentle rustle of aspen, pulling me back in time. The memory intersects with the present, where the sounds of water and breeze become a delight. 

No need for kegger parties or psychedelic nights; just nature’s embrace heightens the senses, offering deep insights. This mid-July heat wave intertwines with every other summer breeze and every tiny insect that takes flight. 

A single mosquito stands as a buzzing reminder, its bite added to my life's itchy welts. Palm trees and cottonwoods wave gently at the endless stream of people, serene spectators to the flow of life.

If only my tent could transform into a permanent retreat, a place to watch sea lions surfing the dawn’s first light. Or a home nestled among oaks and pines, their gentle shade shielding me from the afternoon’s oppressive heat.

High on a hill, where no buzzing mosquito will dare to exist, a refuge of tranquility. Back at the coast, the sand scorches beneath my feet, but the ocean’s blue embrace offers a cooling reprieve. 

Who needs a retreat when nature’s wonder is just a few minutes away?