Peru Chronicles: Inca Trail Hike - Exploring the Path to Machu Picchu Part Two

 

Peru Chronicles: Inca Trail Hike - Exploring the Path to Machu Picchu Part Two

By Armando Ortiz

Into the Lush Andes:

As we continued, the path became greener, a sign that we were approaching the lusher side of the Andes. We were seven miles in, yet each turn revealed something new. Our guide stopped and pointed to the river we had been following–the Urubamba. It winds through the Sacred Valley before merging into the Amazon. In a way, we were seeing the Amazon itself. I gazed at the river, imagining its vast journey and the communities it sustained.

A Film Scene Come to Life:

I was then taken back to the first ten minutes of Herzog's film. I imagined being a soldier in that army of land pirates on my way to a lost city. “This must have been where they filmed it,” I thought. “I’ve seen this before.” The film had captured the mountains, clouds, and winding trail well- but now, I was inside that very scene. 

I watched trekkers descending the same stretch I had hiked two kilometers earlier, while my own group ascended behind me. For a moment, it felt like I had wandered into Herzog’s film, retracing the steps of his lost conquistadors.

We weren’t drifting down the river like Aguirre nor renouncing our homelands in search of gold. I discovered something beautiful to bring back: the memory of these mountain ranges and the river. As many Peruvians had told us prior to this hike, Machu Picchu has a lot of positive energy. It leaves you in awe. There’s something undeniably special about this place.

As we hiked, I told Yeny about another Herzog film, where a madman hauls a boat over a mountain to build a theater. The same actor starred in Aguirre, but this time, he played Fritzcarraldo. It was during the filming of that movie that the native extras offered to kill him for the director.” She just smiled and nodded. I, on the other hand, couldn’t shake these films from my mind.

The Final Climb to Machu Picchu:

We were down to three more kilometers before arriving in Machu Picchu, but before that we’d have to go through subtropical terrain where ancient plants like ferns and orchids grow wild. Just before Inti Punku, the Sun Gate, the final eighty to ninety feet would be the steepest climb. But the reward was worth it- from here, Machu Picchu came into view, and the trail finally descended.

The trail continued down and opened up into Machu Picchu. After seeing countless images of Machu Picchu- tourists posing before its vast ruins, many remarking on its unexpected scale- I was finally here. The sheer scale of the site struck me- its magnitude, its importance to humanity. I walked the same ground the Inca once did. It was a magical moment. 

Standing Among History:

Some terraces remained covered in overgrowth, hinting at how much of the city lay hidden beneath time– just as the ruins we had passed along the trail hinted at a forgotten past.

I also imagined runners in their early 20s taking these long treks, and having a place to rest where food was available. A place to bathe and relax, while farmers transported supplies to these sites with caravans of llamas. 

This hike deepened my curiosity about the Inca, the trail, and Peru’s geography.

The Inca Trail- A Journey Through Time:

In total, we hiked about nine miles from the trailhead to the bus that took us to Aguas Calientes. The hike took most of the day with about 9 hours of hiking, which included pausing for our guide’s historical explanations, to ask questions, and to take breaks for snacks. 

We were a group of 13, moving together as one. For future hikers: the group moves as a unit, which may affect pacing. Total elevation gain was 2,744 feet, which means that about five and a half to six miles of the trail will include stairs and ascents. 

With each step, I felt the weight of history beneath my feet. The Inca Trail was more than a hike–it was a journey through time, one step into the past with each ascent.

Peru Chronicles: Inca Trail Hike - Exploring the Path to Machu Picchu

Peru Chronicles: Inca Trail Hike - Exploring the Path to Machu Picchu

By Armando Ortiz

Starting the Inca Trail at KM 104:

The Inca Trail, rich in history and stunning landscapes, offers an unforgettable journey to Machu Picchu. Our adventure began at 4 a.m. with a pick up near Plaza San Blas in Cusco, nestled within granite walls that once housed the Inca elite. After gathering our group, we headed to Ollantaytambo, where we took the train to the KM 104 stop. 

At the trailhead, we crossed the Urubamba River bridge, stretched, and warmed up for the trek ahead. After a short debrief, we started our hike. Our guide, Ruben, stopped every 20-30 minutes to share stories about the archaeological sites or unique fauna along the trail.

Our first stop was a set of ruins, once a rest area for Inca runners traveling the vast empire. Only the walls and remnants of baths remained, but they offered a glimpse into the intricate network that once connected this civilization.

Magical Waterfalls Along the Inca Trail:

Before lunch, we rested at a small hut offering much-needed shade from the intense high-altitude sun. Some of us snacked on provisions, while others gazed at the distant archeological sites that resembled weathered staircases carved into the mountain.

Further along, we came to a waterfall that felt almost magical. Butterflies flitted along the water’s edge, and trekkers paused to snap photos. Yeny waded into the shallow pool, while I removed my boots and dipped my feet into the icy water. 

For a moment, the rushing falls drowned out every other sound. The chatter of hikers faded, and I found myself lost in the serenity of the moment. My feet tingled, almost numb from the cold, as I marveled at the serenity of the trail’s hidden gem. 

Contemplating Nature along the Terraces:

Rejuvenated, we continued our journey and reached a site where medicinal herbs were once cultivated. The terraces, with their steep stairways, seemed surreal, as if carved directly into the mountainside.

Andean swallows darted overhead, soaring gracefully into the green canyons before streaking back past us like shadows. Watching them, I imagined exploring the mountains as freely as those birds, discovering every hidden corner. 

As I paused to rest, the endless layers of terraces filled me with awe. I marveled at the ancient knowledge required to build such an enduring legacy– an understanding of rocks, water flow, wind patterns, and the best placements for crops. These reflections swirled in my mind leaving me in awe of the ingenuity of the Inca people. 

Having Lunch at Winay Huayna:

At the midway point, we reached Winay Huayna, or ‘Forever Young’ in Quecha, a stunning archeological site with agricultural terraces and water channels. Lunch awaited us, prepared by porters who had raced ahead.

We entered a makeshift tent with a long table and enough chairs for our group. The meal, fit for royalty and Incan runners, began with a warm soup, followed by a feast of fried trout, cheese, avocado, lomo saltado, potatoes, and fresh salad. Drinks included water, chicha and tea, with filtered water available to refill bottles. We ate to our heart’s content and felt completely satisfied.

The meal brought a sense of camaraderie as we chatted about the hike and our preparations. Seated across from us, a couple from Texas introduced themselves- Taylor, an internal medicine doctor, and Tyler, a biology instructor. They asked our thoughts on the train performance, which led me to recall Werner Herzog’s film Aguirre, the Wrath of God.

Referencing a film about conquistadors may have seemed obscure, but the train performance’s exaggerated dubbing mirrored the surreal energy of Aguirre. The traditional Inca costumes and theatrical gestures reminded me of the film's eccentric protagonist and his chaotic journey through the Andean jungle.

Looking Ahead:

As we packed up to continue, the surreal blend of history, nature, and personal moments lingered in my mind. The Inca Trail had already etched itself into my memory, and the promise of Machu Picchu ahead filled us with anticipation.